Hand Tool Headlines

The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator

 

Be sure to visit the Hand Tool Headlines section - scores of my favorite woodworking blogs in one place.  Also, take note of Norse Woodsmith's latest feature, an Online Store, which contains only products I personally recommend.  It is secure and safe, and is powered by Amazon.

Search

Accidental Woodworker

Subscribe to Accidental Woodworker feed
The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2796125
Updated: 1 hour 2 min ago

a little of this, and some of that......

15 hours 17 min ago
I had no direction in the shop today. I had some thoughts on making an in/box from me to use at work but that idea died. Next was deciding what I was going to have for lunch in 5 hours. It was going to be chinese, but what kind of chinese was the dilemma. I tend to order the same thing every saturday but today I wanted something different. After the lunch selection was complete I decided to work on the tool cabinet. I should get that done before I do anything else.

the moment of truth
I put a clamp on this to keep the upright tight to the foot. It's time to remove the clamp and see if it will talk to me.

silence
These don't take any abuse so I am optimistic that the dowel joint will hold up. I am entertaining the thought of making another pair but much higher - about 32-36 inches high.

the epoxy on this is still a little tacky
I had to wait a few more hours before I could epoxy the spacer on.

scraping the finish off the drawer front
this got a reprieve
Before I take this shelf and drawer off I will paint the tool cabinet first. I won't have any place to put all this crappola so I might as well let it eat it's last meal first.

epoxied the spacer on
The epoxy bled through from one side to the other overnight in a few spots. Maybe that is why it was  tacky for so long?  It wasn't tacky feeling anymore so I epoxied it and secured it with blue painters tape.

did some putty work before the epoxy
handle haircut time
I gave the 1/2" pigsticker and the 3/8" one I got for Miles a spokeshave job. Miles was the easier one of the two to do.

On Miles's handle I started the haircut down at the bottom where it ran wild and beyond the bolster edges.

1/2 done
I tried to keep the oval-ish shape as I did this. The heavy cuts were at the bottom tapering to nothing at the top.

my pigsticker
A lot of the size of this handle is because of this. I have already given this a shave and I'm still almost an 1/8" proud of the bolster edge.

got one side close to the bolster edge
top of Miles's pigsticker
The first I've seen of this style. It has a definite arc to the top and it shows signs of use so it must have worked.

Miles's chisel sanded and done
It just needs to be sharpened.

the other side of the 3/8" chisel
The handle is beech and most of the pigstickers I have are made of this. I have a couple made of what looks like ash or red oak but I can't be sure.

my chisel
It is feeling better in the grip but I still think it is too fat yet. I've taken a fair bit of wood off this handle but I still have a wee bit more to go. BTW, this one is beech too with birds eye figure which is a pain to shave without tearing out.

planing the facets out
I used this spokeshave to smooth out the facets left by the Stanley spokeshave. This one also shaved without tearing out as much as the Stanley did. This shave has a much tighter mouth than the Stanley and I use it for finer work.

I'm happy with the grip now
  don't feel like I'm holding a tree limb anymore. I understand there is fine line in the sand between having a handle large enough to absorb the mallet blows and one that is comfortable to grip. I am going more with the grip side of the equation.

the plastic pouch these came in is history
I want to make something similar like this
Scratched the bald spot for quite a while but the light in the brain bucket wouldn't even come on dim. I kind of know what I want but I couldn't think of a way to translate it into wood. Maybe after a good night's sleep something will come to me.

painted the tool cabinet and one drawer
I am not painting the top tray. I don't like the idea of my tools laying and rattling around on paint. The top edge and the inside will get a few coats of shellac.

painted the frog on the #5
I made a road trip to Lowes to get another quart of the paint I'm using on the tool cabinet. While I was there I saw a quart can of Rustoleum oil based clean metal primer. When I got back home I ordered a pint can from Walmart and supposedly I'll have it by thursday.

scraping the big front on the pull out tray
I had to sharpen and roll another burr on this. Using it on the drawer front previously dulled it to the point of being useless. It took both ends of the blade to do this.

I didn't go nutso on this
I wasn't trying to remove the old finish completely down to bare wood, just the shiny top layer.

painted the interior of the tray
I am only painting the interior of the tray. I did this to give a tooth so the boxes that will be on here won't slide off as the tray is opened or closed.

I may get the tool cabinet painted and ready for the tools tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Fred Lynn and Ichiro Suzuki are the only two players in MLB who were Rookie of the year and MVP in the same year?

braces set, leg fixed.......

Sat, 02/24/2018 - 12:05am
I tried to open my comments on my lunch break and it surprised the crap out of me by opening. But as soon as I moved the mouse, the comments went south. I didn't get to read the whole comment but I saw 'bridle joint' before it shut down on me. Now that is a joint I hadn't thought of doing. I liked that idea when better then my doweling it back together. I had the whole joint planned out in my head and I was going to try it when I got home.

working on the bridle joint idea
This would work. The upright would get the open mortise and the leg would get the dadoes.

the snag
If I do the bridle joint on the broken leg/upright, I will have to repeat on this side. Why? Using the bridle joint will shorten that side by the width of the leg.  It would definitely be a leading candidate if I break uprights in the future.

for Miles's toolbox
 I saw this brandy new looking #80 on Jim Bode's site so I bought it. The #80 I was going to give him is an older model and it is a bit finicky to use. I find the #80 I have that looks exactly like this one, is much easier to make shavings with. I also got him a 3/8" pigsticker. I'm wavering like a bride picking out a wedding dress about whether or not to get him a 5/16" one.

got a 1/2" one for me
This must have belonged to Paul Bunyan because this handle is massive. I have big hands and my fingers barely wrap around it.

Miles's 3/8" pigsticker on top and my 1/2" on the bottom
my 9/16" pigsticker
I think this got chipped from rattling around in the drawer I keep these in. I'll have to grind off a fairly large chunk of metal to remove this. The 1/2" pigsticker has a small chip on the bevel too. Not as large as this one.

what's up with boxes?
I don't see the attraction for boxes. Most every site says that this would be the 'original box' too. I bought this $49 and I'm sure some of those dollars went towards this ratty looking 'original box'.

dowel joinery
This is a General doweling jig I bought in the late 1970's. I never made even one single dowel joint with this. I can't remember the last time I used this and I don't have any fond memories of using it neither. But if I want to repair this leg and basically keep the same dimensions I will have to get this to work.

first mind fart
I was so intent on lining up the dowel jig with my layout lines going across the width that I didn't center it.

at least I repeated it on the upright
thinning the dowels
I used the slip joint pliers to make these depressions on the dowels for two reasons. The first was to give a place for the glue to ooze and seep into. The second reason was to compress it a little bit because the fit in the holes was too tight. According to the sticker on the dowels these came from China in june of 2016. I would bet the ranch that these are dry and acclimated to the shop.

wow
It is flush on this side of the joint.

it's flush on this side - wow again
This is my first multiple dowel joint that I have made that came together. It is my first dowel joint that came out flush. I think the reason why this came out so well is because of all the hand work I've done over the past few years. When I first bought this I was a wanna be handtool woodworker but used power tools almost exclusively. Accurate layout was not a forte back then with me.

This doesn't change my opinion of dowel joints. I still don't have a high regard for them but I am happy with my technique and the resulting joint. This will stay a bottom of the pile for choosing joints but I won't hesitate to use again if I have to.

spacing the braces
I don't want the brace to be right up against the drawer slide. This 1/8" brass bar will give me plenty of room. I am mostly concerned with the epoxy getting on the slide.

huge improvement
The braces are picking up the force from the drawer being opened. The top stayed stiff and straight and I didn't feel like the bottom moved at all.

I have a warm and fuzzy with this
I don't think the drawer slide would have hit the brace if I hadn't put in the 1/8" space. I would rather err on the side of caution here.

UPS came
I took advantage of Lee Valley's free shipping and got Miles a 4" combo square and I got a set of imperial brad point bits. These are 1/8" up to 1/2" by 16ths. I find brad point bits to be more useful than twist bits in the shop. I find the point is much easier to set on a dot then a twist bit. I wanted to get the 28 brad point set but that is $199 and the toy fund is empty right now.

took it apart, spread the epoxy, and rescrewed it
no gap on the top drawer

remove the spacer
Since the top of the drawer is end grain, I will epoxy an end grain spacer on.

sized the two end grain surfaces
I meant to do this last night and I did go down to the shop to do it. I sawed out the spacer and that was it. I wish I had done it now because I'll have to wait another day before this is done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the average american watches about 4 hours of TV a day?

more tool cabinet stuff.......

Fri, 02/23/2018 - 12:33am
It is that time of the year where I don't know what to wear when I leave for work. This morning when I left for work the porch temp said 58°F (14.4°C). The weather prediction said the overnight temps would be in the 20's (obviously they weren't) and the 40's during day. What to do, what to do? I wore a light jacket and I survived. The temps dipped to 42°F (5.5°C) and that is the low limit for this jacket. Maybe I should buy an intermediate jacket?

fixing the broken saw horse
My first thought was to make a loose tenon but chiseling a mortise in end grain I think is futile.  Making a new upright is out of the question too. I would have to break a blind and a through mortise connection in order to remove it. I think doweling this, although not a favorite of mine, is the best option to get this back in service.

I sawed and planed what was left of the tenon at the bottom of this upright. Filling in the mortise is next.

drilled out some waste
I drilled 1/3 of the way down because that is about where the dowels were.

had to try it
I think I'm going to like working out of this tool cabinet. I might work out of the existing boxes for my chisels too. That will save me from having to find a new use for the boxes I have now. And I won't have to make special holders for them in the drawers.

patch fitted
This is a nice (dry) snug fit. Now that that is done I can glue it and let it cook overnight. Tomorrow I'll do one of my least favorite joints - dowels.

I didn't reuse the first two screw holes
I didn't want to chance the screws not going into these holes so I didn't reuse them. I got four screws along the bottom here and I'll fill these two with miller dowels.

small miller dowel
This filled the bottom portion of the screw hole but not the counter bore at the top. I will fill in what the miller didn't with Dunham's putty. I glued in bungs in the four screw holes after I did the miller dowel cha-cha-cha.

what I'm going with
Step one is to epoxy the braces. A couple of days ago my thoughts were to half lap these but I can't do that. I can on the tray but not on the front. That will need a mortise. The tray is only a 1/2" thick (slightly less than 1/2") and I don't like screwing into the ends of plywood. So the half lap and blind mortise are out.

step two has room for two screws
I feel ok that the epoxy, and two screws put in both ends, will be provide sufficient stiffness for the front.

shut the lights after this
Since the 45 isn't all end grain or long grain, I am sizing it first. I got a sizing tip when I tried to epoxy end grain to long grain when I made my cell phone holders last xmas. I'll do the gluing and screwing of these tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that an average adult elephant has a trunk that is 8 feet long (2.4 meters)?

tool cabinet - fitting the fronts.........

Thu, 02/22/2018 - 12:30am
Yesterday and today were in the low 60's F (16°C) and we tied the record for the highest temp set back in 1930. Tomorrow the temps are going to drop about 20 degrees and it'll be more seasonable.  My lilac bushes have started to bud and the daisies are putting up sprouts by the back door. I didn't catch Punxsutawney Phil  predication for spring but it's looking good from where I'm sitting.

started with the bottom pull out front
After I installed this one and started on the second drawer, I realized I should have done this starting with the top drawer and working down. Oh well, I started at the bottom by flushing this piece I glued on this end. This is the side that will be facing in and I want it to lay up tight against the sides of the cabinet.

less than a 32nd overhang on both sides
I used my fingers and evened this up as best I could, side to side. I started with 1/8" plywood as spacers at the bottom but I switched to cardboard. Any expansion of the front will be side to side as the long grain runs top to bottom.Because of that I can put a smaller margin at the bottom.

marked the screws onto the dolly
I don't want to screw into the front and hit a screw so I marked them.

new spacers
I used three of these at each end to give me the margin at the bottom. I drilled and drove two screws to hold it in place as I worked on the other fronts.

I was right
In this orientation, when I opened the drawer it tilted back a lot before it started to open. I tried it with on the sawhorses and it did the same thing but not as bad.

not giving me a warm and fuzzy
It has only two screws holding it in place and with a couple more it should be better.  It isn't as bad as I thought it would be. I think the 45° braces will help out a lot and negate any forces on the bottom,

marking how much this overhangs the drawer

didn't overhang by much
I sawed this plus a 1/8" more for clearance off of the bottom front. This is where I found out I should have started at the top. I had to unscrew this and when I screwed it back on one screw didn't make it back into it's original hole. The hole it made pushed the left side up an 1/8". Made me feel very unhappy.'

In hindsight, if I had started at the top and worked down, I wouldn't have had this problem. I would have fitted each of the two drawers and not have had to remove them. I could have then marked and set the big one and not have had to remove it neither. I started with the bottom one because I thought it would be the most difficult one to do.

proving myself right
These fronts were very easy to do because they are the same width as the drawers and the length goes out to the cabinet sides.

the top drawer
The top of this drawer is barely a frog hair over the opening. I don't have any more stock to make a new front. I'll be epoxying a filler strip to the top to increase the OA width. I'm glad I'm painting this because I have few sins to hide.

oops
I tried to lift it off the saw horses but I lost my grip on the cabinet, it slid forward, and the sawhorse fell along with me and the cabinet. I have a broken foot to fix somehow. And this isn't going to be an easy fix. But the good news is I didn't break anything and the cabinet survived without a scratch.

first look see
Thinking now that maybe I should have gone with inset fronts. They are forward of the front of the tray. I'll have to cook up some kind of a transition point between them.

it'll fit under the workbench
found 3 shiny brass handles
quit here

 Not a deal breaker but I should have put the drawer opening on the other side of the cabinet. One side is 3" less than the other. The drawer openings are on the short side. If I had put it on the long side I wouldn't have the overhang past the end of the workbench.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that King Tut was buried with 145 loincloths?

Miles's toolbox update, final part.......

Wed, 02/21/2018 - 12:37am
I saved the planes for the final part of the update because I think then are either the #1 or #2  most important tool in the toolbox. The other tool contending for #1, are the chisels. The planes are one group of tools for Miles that I feel pretty good about. I think I got everything he needs and he shouldn't need to get any others. Well maybe a #7 or a #8 once he grows up.

everyone needs a spokeshave or two
Both of these are EC Preston shaves that I rehabbed. The top one is a chamfer spokeshave and the bottom one is a flat sole spokeshave. Preston did have an eye for style.

I like my block planes
I think these are a Stanley 9 1/4 and 60 1/2 - low angle 12° and high angle 20°. The Record 077 is a rabbet plane but I think it is more of a bullnose plane than a rabbet plane. I can't see this being used to make rabbets other than cleaning them up. You can also remove the nose and convert to a chisel plane.

the bench plane herd
From the left going right- #6, #5, #5 1/4, #4, #3, and a #2.

my current #5
I'm rehabbing a jack I bought as a parts plane because I decided I liked it much better than this jack. I will shine this one up, shitcan that high knob, and give it Miles. I don't know if he will outgrow the 5 1/4 but if he does he'll have a big boy jack to play with.

router plane
This plane and the next two I consider to be must have tools. I have a Lee Valley 1/4" iron for this Stanley because it didn't come with one. I'm still looking but finding one in the wild is proving to be elusive. I haven't seen one in any of the router planes I've seen for sale neither. One option I thought of is to buy a complete router set, take the 1/4" iron and then resell it.

Record 044
I got this working finally. I had some problems with the fence and plane body rod holes being drilled off square in plane #1. This is plane #2 and it is working ok. It will make grooves (rabbets too) from 1/8 up to 9/16 by 16ths.

Grandpa's nemesis
I have used this 3 times and 3 times I felt like I didn't have opposable thumbs. I will have to master this because I'll be showing Miles how to use it. I also bought 4 fence rods because I bent the new one I bought to replace the bent one that came with it.

space is tight in the bottom
The #5 is going to involve a wee bit of creative rearranging to get it to fit in here. I bought a 3/8" pigsticker from Jim Bode today and a 4" combo square from Lee Valley. I don't have much more to get other than sharpening stones and .........

the front of the tray was out of square
this is all the meat I have to screw and glue too
the front of the tray is tall
I am screwed on this no matter where I put the handle. Up high, where I want it, will put almost all the open/close force on the bottom where it is attached to sliding tray. Putting the handle down lower will lessen it some but I still think it would be a problem.

one possible solution
This presents a couple of problems. The first is how to attach the 45 braces to the front and the tray. The front isn't too much of a headache but the tray is only a 1/2" thick. My thoughts on it now is to use epoxy instead of yellow or hide glue and screw it too. One from the front into the 45 and one from underneath the tray into the other 45. I think that may offer sufficient rigidity to pulling forces when opening this. The other option I thought of was to use biscuits and yellow glue.

The other problem is this will eat up real estate that I don't really want to give up. Another thing I can do to reinforce the bottom connection (where the tray front meets the drawer) is to use some glue blocks there. I'll have to make a decision on it because I don't want to be sans a 'door' and leave this open to the shop.

sneak preview
After the drawer fronts are installed I will plane a small chamfer on the sides and the top.

squared up the sides to the bottom
I'll do the fitting/sizing of the drawer fronts once I decide on the sliding tray fix up.

I knew I had another one
3 pins hold it together
how do you replace this pin?
I can take this apart but there is nothing but solid wood under the pin. This gauge is a pinned,  sliding bridle joint construction. This pin barely marks wood. Maybe I could pull them but there isn't a lot to grab on either two.

the fixed pin is the same
There is a single pin on the other side so this gauge has dual capability - marking mortises or single gauge lines. At least I know why now that I tossed in on the black hole shelf.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Chile owns Easter Island even though it is 2300 miles away?

rolling tool cabinet pt ?.........

Tue, 02/20/2018 - 12:33am
Today was a federal holiday and I had it off from work. I put it to good use and made a ton of progress on the tool cabinet. I am almost down to the short strokes on it and maybe by this weekend I'll be organizing what goes in it. I've decided to paint it so that will add 3-4 days before I reach the finish line. Made a few other changes on the fly but nothing is carved in stone yet.

I was going to post the final part on the Miles's toolbox but that will come tomorrow. I planned on doing it today but I got in a groove with the tool cabinet and went with the flow. I did think of it a couple of times.  But I did one more thing on the tool cabinet and that led to another and the toolbox update was forgotten.

sunday night
I wasn't going to glue this up today but I went to the shop after supper and did it. I forgot I had monday off and doing this then would mean that it would be ready in the AM. This is the tray for the top of the toolbox. It doesn't need a bottom because the top of the tool cabinet will be that.

I had to do something with this
The workbench top looked funny to me. It wasn't really clean and looked a pot holed road with dirty patches all over. Scraping this was quite the workout.

I think it is a big improvement
I am not that anal retentive about my workbench getting dirty. This old girl has a lot of scars on her from the past 26 years of use. One thing I won't do is nail or screw into the workbench. For whatever reason I can't bring myself to do it. I'm ok if I goof and accidentally saw into it but the line in the sand for me is nailing or screwing.

flushing the tray
I made sure the bottom was flushed all around and twist free. The bottom will be glued to the tool cabinet. The top of the tray, I just flushed the corners and planed it smooth.

cleaned up the second drawer
I was going to just clean up the front because I'll be attaching a drawer front to it. But I went ahead and cleaned up the other sides too.

flushing the two corners
The bottom of the drawer just has to be flushed at the two front corners. I also checked and ensured that the planing was square to the sides because that is where I referenced the centerline for the drawer slides.

making sure there is no twist on the bottom
just cleaned up the top
There is no need to check this and remove any twist. Smoothed it and erased all the pencil marks and I called drawer #2 done.

getting ready to install the drawer slips
This frees up both hands so I can knife the two marks I need.

using yellow glue on these
I had some errands to do, among them was renewing my registration on the truck. While I was doing that this yellow glue would have set up sufficiently that I could keep working on the drawer.

1/4" spacers
I only have two 1/4" brass set up bars but I wanted to get both slips glued up before I left. I split off these two pieces and planed them to a 1/4" square. I covered them with wax and glued the slip in place. These set the correct spacing of the drawer slip grooves at the front and the back of the drawer.

went 1 for 1
I installed one of these correctly and the other one I put on backwards. Still it was an improvement from drawer #1 when I installed them wrong 3 times.

marking for the cabinet side drawer slide
 Transferred the center line of the drawer slide to cabinet side. I put a piece of 1/8" plywood between the drawers to space them apart. I then marked where the top of the cabinet side drawer slide was.

drawer slide spacer
This spacer goes from the bottom of the top drawer slide to the top of the 2nd drawer slide.

I didn't like this
The drawers are opening and closing without any problems but I'm not comfortable with the 1/8" clearance. I don't expect the drawers to expand so much that they will touch each other, but I would have a warm and fuzzy with a bigger gap.

added an 1/8" and reinstalled the guides

1/4" clearance and I have on my happy face
plenty of clearance on the slide out tray
finally done
It took 8 dance steps before I got my card punched and this fit. I wanted this to be on the snug side and I got it. The slips are slightly proud of the bottom of the drawer and I left them that way. They won't be seen and I wanted to keep them as thick as possible for strength reasons.

had a mind fart
Everything else was going so well and then this. When I measured the front to back, I forgot to add the 5/16" depth for the front groove.

drilling for the screws
I can't put the screws in the plywood because it is almost centered on the width of the back of the drawer. I clamped this block of wood and drilled a pilot hole on the joint line between them.

screws installed
I glued the front of the drawer in the groove (hide glue) so these screws will keep the bottom in place. I don't have to be concerned with expansion or contraction because the bottom is plywood.

glued the tray onto the top
I used hide glue on this for just in case. I don't anticipate changing this but I may have to repair it and hide glue is reversible.

change 1
The original plan was to get all 3 drawer fronts out of this piece of plywood. I changed my mind and I'll be painting this so I don't need this continuous grain match for the drawers.

change 2
I was going to make the drawer fronts out of this 1/2" thick pine. It would have worked on the the two top drawers but not the slide out tray. The front for the slide out tray is tall and will only be attached at the bottom. I don't think 1/2" pine would be able to withstand the stresses of opening and closing the tray. And I would also have had to glue two pieces of pine together to get the required width.

old kitchen door pieces
 I think I got the width needed for each drawer front but the length is iffy on drawer #1 and the sliding tray.

I was right
The stock for the second drawer is 2" over in the length while the sliding tray and #1 drawer are 1 1/2" shy.

the ends are long grain
These are going to be painted so any glued on parts will be invisible. Having long grain on the edges will make the glue up easier for me.

old hinge and handle screw holes
Some of these I can hide by putting this side against the the drawer boxes. Any holes on the face side I can fill with Dunham's Putty.

ugly looking
Not only is it black but it is also deep. This will go against the drawer box and be hidden.

didn't get lucky here
I got two pieces here, one with long grain and this one with end grain. I needed two pieces 14" long for the sliding tray length. I only got one.

using a piece of pine on the other end
I need a finished length of about 25 1/2" inches. Without this piece of pine I am an 1/8" shy.

they'll be ready to finish out tomorrow
Accidental Woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that President Thomas Jefferson invented the first hide-away bed?

Miles's toolbox penultimate part........

Mon, 02/19/2018 - 2:04am
Tomorrow will be the last part to Miles's toolbox for a good while. I don't have everything I want but I have 95% of it easily. Since my grandson just had his first birthday two months ago, I think I'm safe if I take my time getting what is left to get. So far I haven't had any surprises with something I don't have. I kind of know what is left to get but Miles wouldn't be too put out if he had to use what is here now.

This update will be another lump job like the previous one. It is mostly ancillary tools and do-dads that make the road less bumpy.

sharpening stuff is a bit on the lean side
I made this strop when I made one for me. The LN honing guide was a contribution from Ken Hatch. It has the guides for chisels from 1/8" on up to #8 plane irons (2 5/8"?). I haven't decided on what to get him for stones yet. I am leaning in the direction of diamond stones and a 8K japanese water stone for polishing like I use. I wouldn't have room for that in the toolbox so I'll have to make a till to stow it all in.

Having sharp tools is very important and I want to impress this on Miles. He'll be young enough that it will probably become second nature with him.

nailing stuff
The nail puller on the left works great on brads and small nails. I have used mine pulling 10 penny finish nails without any problems. The box has 3 nail sets and a center punch. I made the box because I dislike tools rattling around and banging against each other.

screwdriver sets
The left brown ones are square drives - #2, #1, and #0. The right ones are a standard set of flat and philip head drivers. I didn't bother with power bits because he isn't getting any powered tools from me.

hand power required

The 1/2" breast drill (in the box) will be rehabbed and given to Miles. I had bought him a set of auger bits but I returned them. Out of eight bits, 7 of them had no threads on the lead screw. Useless, so back they went. I want to see the next set before I buy another. Undecided on getting him a small eggbeater drill. I saw one on the hyperkitten site and I didn't get it like an idiot.

banging stuff
The mallet is mine and I will get one for Miles too. What kid that age doesn't like to beat and bang on things. The 8oz hammer was mine. The first handle had broken and I bought a new hammer (saved the head) because I didn't know how to replace a handle back then. Now I do and it belongs to Miles.

chisels
I got this Ashley Iles chisel set from the Best of Things. It is a basic set and it came with the chisel roll. I snagged the big AI chisel from SawMillCreek. I got him a 1/4" pigsticker and this payday I'm getting him a 3/8". He'll be able to do most of his mortising work with those two. I will work prepping these chisels into the schedule somehow, somewhere.

basic shaping and finishing set
The file is for the card scrapers and the #80. And occasional end grain work too.

flattened and shined the sole, the retaining bar, and the thumbscrews

I will have to strip and paint this now
Hock burnisher
For rolling the hook on the blade in the #80 and the card scrapers.

Miles's Olsen coping saw
I like this saw but the handle comes off in use. That makes it a wee bit annoying.

this is what won't stay put
epoxy?
The friction fit in the handle is toast. The nut thing is hollow and screws on the threaded part on the saw frame right below it. I'll have to be careful when I epoxy it.

 the second drawer

last joint going together off the saw
This is what I shoot for but I don't mind trimming to fit neither. I did much better on these dovetails then I did on the first drawer. I had to do a lot trimming on them before I got the drawer to come together.

dry square ok
snug fit between the slides.
I should be able to get this drawer done tomorrow.

cleaned the bench
The drawer I just dovetailed got dirty from being on the bench. I rehabbed a lot of tools and a lot of that debris from it settled into the bench. I tried to clean with Krud Kutter but that didn't work too well. So I switched to planing it clean.

a plug for Autosol
This is what the bottom of these planes looked like after planing the workbench.

it's not twisted
  1. I rely on my bench to be flat. I can check it for twist but I don't have anything 8 foot long to check it for flat with. I used a lot of critical eyeballing along with copious scratching of the bald spot to check it for flat.

second dovetail job today
2nd one went together off the saw too
it's going where the second drawer is cooking away
it will be a tray for the top of the tool cabinet

this drawer is going away
All the crappola that is in this drawer will go in the tray.  I'll glue the tray together tomorrow and once it has set up, I'll glue it to the top of the cabinet.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the wheel on the game show 'Wheel of Fortune' is 8 and 1/2 feet in diameter?

Miles's toolbox pt II........

Sun, 02/18/2018 - 1:53am
Today's part is all about measuring and layout tools. I lumped these together because they go hand in hand. You use the two of  them together just as much as you would use them separately. This part of the herd is pretty much done but if something catches my eye I'll snag it for Miles.

square till
The toolbox, the saw, and square tills, all were painted with an exterior paint. After that I applied 4 coats of shellac. The shellac allows me to brush the boxes clean when they get covered with shop dust. If they were just painted, I would have to wash them to clean them.

good selection of squares
The big square on the left is 15" on the inside and 17" on the outside. The right one is 12" on the inside and 14" on the outside. The only quibble I have with them is they were made to be square on the inside only from the manufacturer.  The inside part of the wooden leg has a brass strip but not on the outside. However, I played with these until I got the outside to be square also. Just my opinion, but a square that only reads it on the inside is limited.

What I want to add to the square till
I've been looking for a 4" Starrett but I have only come across one in my hunting. I saw it on one of my tool sites but I lost that to someone else. Lee Valley has free shipping until Wednesday so I might buy their 4" combo square. A brand new Starrett is $74.

most of the layout/measuring stuff is in the top two tills

measuring stuff
I got him Paul Seller's marking knife of which I am a recent convert to. Other then the knife, everything else measures in imperial. The hook rule at the bottom left is imperial and metric. The black box at the top is a fractional reading caliper. I got one for him because I found mine to be a handy tool to have. It will also read decimal but I don't use that.

I got hooked on the Lee Valley sliding square and it gets a lot of use in my shop. I traded a 6" Delta jointer for it. I think I got the better part of that deal. The only thing I gave him that I don't use much myself anymore is the 24" centering rule.

6" rule
This size is handy and I use mine mostly in laying out dovetails.

3 marking gauges
I am hunting for a couple of more but Miles will be able to get by with these even if I don't add anymore to his herd. From the top to the bottom - Stanley 65 oval head, single pin marking gauge. The other two are the same style gauge - the middle one is a Stanley #72 and the bottom one is a Stanley #71.

both are single pin with dual beams
I gave him these because they can serve a dual purpose. Between the two of them they can hold 4 different settings. Or they can be used as a mortise gauge. One thing I've found with the Stanley marking gauges are the scales are dead nuts on.

the only difference
The Stanley #72 has a brass wear plate under the marking pins where the #71 doesn't.

he'll be getting one of these for sure
This marking gauge can be used to gauge a line on curved work. These have suddenly become scarcer than frog hair blankets. I used to see these offered up all the time when I didn't want one and now I can't remember the last time I saw one for sale.

3" mortise gauge
This is a Stanley #73 and I love the size of this mortise gauge. This is another gauge that I want to add to Miles's herd. This one is even scarcer then the Stanley round work gauge ( mine is marked Stanley but it has no model number).

has long length, sharp pins
If I can't find another one of these I will probably buy or give him one my mortise gauges. He will probably inherit this one.

the final part of the layout and measuring herd
Pencils and magic markers are usually overlooked but they are essential parts of a tool kit. I am not that anal to include them now but I can supply them when they are actually needed.

first drawer bottom installed
I glued it in the front groove with hide glue and screwed it to the back with 3 screws, no glue. I did this with a rabbet bit in my electric router. Plywood is too hard on plane irons. I still had to plane it to fit the groove and the slips.

#5 primed
I removed 99.99% of the japanning from the frog so I opted to prime it. I got the sole of the plane sanded to 80 grit but I still have to do the sides.

Grrrr
The previous owner of this saw fit to put a big back bevel on this iron. It looks like a knife edge and not a plane iron edge. It is almost a 1/16th of inch from the edge so I'll lose a lot grinding it off. I'm not sure that I'll be able to sharpen this as I have zero experience with a back bevels - ala 'ruler trick'. It is hard trying to flatten the back because of it.

another problem
The business end of the iron is flat but the back end is drunk. I'm pushing down there and the bevel is over a 1/8" off the plywood.

it's now a C bend
It was bent in a S shape at this end. I was able to kind of beat the S into a C but not flatten it. I'm not sure if the lever cap and chipbreaker will be able to flatten this out. I didn't road test it before I started rehabbing it so I don't know how or if it made shavings.

prepping the stock for the second drawer
I need to find a home for this
I have only used brown rouge on both wheels and they blacker than the edge of space. Why?

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a qubit in Quantum Computing is a two state unit of quantum information?

Miles's toolbox......

Fri, 02/16/2018 - 11:44pm
This is an update on my grandson's toolbox. I think I am pretty close to being done with it. I know of a couple more toys I want to add to the herd before I call it done. This will be the first of 4 or maybe 5 posts I'll do on this. This one is on the toolbox and the saw till. The others will follow suit. While this is going on I'll be working on the tool cabinet and finishing the rehabbing of the #5.

Feel free to chime in on anything you think I need to add or maybe take away. I am not shooting for getting every toy available but a decent starting set for him to learn and grow with. He can add/subtract as he wants if it keeps up with it.

Miles's toolbox and tills
The big toolbox wasn't big enough to put all the tools in it. The long rectangular box is the saw till and the box on top is the till for his squares. I definitely did not want the squares to be banging around loose in the toolbox.

the big toolbox
I had made this a few years ago and I added one big till and two smaller ones. I thought of making a bigger toolbox but I am staying with this. That will keep my purchases to a minimum and hopefully just what is needed.

it's on a rolling dolly
My thanx to the Valley Woodworker (Bob) for making this suggestion. It is a huge back saver and something I will do again.

the saw till
I'll be putting the coping saw in the lid
the backsaws
From the top on down - rip tenon saw, crosscut carcass saw, and a dovetail saw. These should do for any joinery he'll do. He may have to wait a while to grow into them though.

rip and crosscut panel saws
All of these saws have been cleaned, the totes refinished, and all have been sharpened. The coping saw did not need any of this but I do have to fix the handle on it. It is loose and has an annoying habit of separating itself from the saw frame while using it. I'll epoxy it as a first fix.

I think I'm set on saws for Miles. He should be able to build whatever he wants with this set. A couple of things I want to add to the saw till is a saw set and some files so he can sharpen these. He can make his own saw vise as a shop project.

tote screw and a carbide bit to drill holes
One of the totes was loose and I was going to replace one of the saw nuts but both totes are now tight. And I don't remember which one was loose. There is absolutely nothing loose on either of them. I will keep these in this saw till for just in case.

the coping saw holder from my saw till
I am going to reuse this to hold the coping saw in Miles's saw till box.

corners were too tight
I had to rasp the corners back some to give a wee bit more to slip the coping on and off of this.

screws punched through
The lid panel is only 6mm plywood which is less than a 1/4" thick. I didn't want to glue the holder on to the inside of the lid but I may not have a choice. I'll leave it screwed on for now but if I have to I'll glue in on with hide glue.

room for another saw
The coping saw stayed in the holder through several open and close cycles of the lid which surprised me. I was going to put a toggle stick on the holder but I don't think I need to now.

Tomorrow I'll post about the measuring do-dads I stuffed in the toolbox.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Great White Shark is the largest predatory fish in the world?

jack rehab.......

Fri, 02/16/2018 - 12:40am
I did quick look up for the type of jack I have. It has a corrugated sole but that really doesn't have anything to do with the type. It has two patent dates in front of the tote but not the arched doo hickey thing between the two circular screw holes for the frog. The type ten ushered in the adjustable frog and the screw which is absent from my plane. I think it is a type 9 or maybe a type ten that didn't get the frog adjustment treatment. I read Patrick's plane study and it kind of fits inbetween the 9 and 10. It has some of the DNA from both. No matter, I'm rehabbing a corrugated sole #5.

starting to rust on the back

two patent dates and a rusting frog area
I will wire brush this tomorrow and clean it with acetone. Once I'm satisfied the rust is gone I'll apply the stripper.

small parts out of the EvapoRust
rinsed and blown dry
I have done my derusting with a few different agents. The last one I tried was citric acid and I've made the circle back to EvapoRust. This stuff works the best. It is safe to touch and dump down the household drain and it works at derusting.  I also like the finish on the parts after they come out of the bath. It is also reusable a boatload of times. What's not to like about it?

buffer work
 I was able to raise a decent shine on the barrel nuts. I was going to buy a replacement set but I think I'll use these. The slots aren't chewed up and I do like shiny things.

came pretty clean with Krud Kutter and a blue scrubbie
inside doesn't look the same
I haven't been able to clean the inside of any knob I've done with any cleaner. Even Bar Keeps needs help with a wire brush to get clean and shiny.

sandpaper always works
Even using sandpaper is still tough, especially getting my fat fingers in there to work it.

this knob has had the snot beat out of it
I had a hard time turning this off of the stud around the half way point. Maybe the previous owner didn't think to clean the threads and instead used a pipe wrench to turn it.

shined on the buffer
It didn't look like this when I got done buffing it. It was black and I had to wipe the knob with a rag to get the shine. The buffing wheel is black too but I had cleaned the knob before I buffed it. I'll have to read up on this and see if there is something I'm doing wrong.

Lee Valley sent another one
fits, but.......
I don't want to sound ungrateful but I think that this should sit down a wee bit more. It works and holds the bit securely so maybe I'm quibbling about nothing.

road tested my chamfer brace bit
worked
I could only get the chamfer to work to about the 1/3 point. I leaned on the brace and pressed down on it but I could not get the chamfer any larger than this.

filed it some

easier to make the chamfers
 Still couldn't go past the half way point but they appear to be a bit cleaner looking.

did a better job of filing it
far left hole is toast
The bit didn't want to make the left one any larger than what it is. The other two holes weren't a problem. What I can't understand is why it won't go any deeper. The cutting edge is sharp and shiny from the top to the bottom so it should a make a chamfer right up to the top.

tried it in pine
Easier to do than the DF but still only to about half way. It looks like this will be good for #6 screws and maybe #8's.

sticky 80 grit
It is wide enough to do the jack and I don't have any clamps to get in the way.

it's pretty close to flat
I like using the PSA sandpaper over the 6x48 sanding belts. The biggie is no clamps in the way leaving the whole runway open. I can go from one end to the other and overshoot .

Krud Kutter cut the crud
that is some nasty looking grunge
encouraging
This is ten strokes on 80 grit. This side was pitted, not deeply, but still pitted. This quick dance step removed most of them. I don't think I'll have any problems getting the cheeks shiny.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a kazoo is classified as a membranophone?

not myself........

Thu, 02/15/2018 - 12:34am
I did not want to get out of my bed this morning. Usually as soon as I wake up, I'm out of the rack. I'm rearing and ready to go and I don't need anything else to get my motor warmed up. I felt tired and blah feeling all day at work. I'm glad that I didn't have a lot of work to do, I don't remember feeling this out of it from first colonoscopy.


might as well
I believe I have stepped over the "....you might as well" line in the sand. I cleaned this with Zep and Krud Kutter to compare them and I went a wee bit further. I scraped two rusty spots and then scraped the body. I would estimate I easily removed 85-90% of the japanning. I hadn't planned on rehabbing any more planes until next month but I don't a choice now. This will flash rust in a couple of days without a primer coat on it.

I won't be stripping it today but maybe tomorrow I'll do it. Now that I am doing it I can't wait to see how this one comes out. This plane has some pitting on the cheek walls and I want to see if I can lap them out. This will be my first time doing something like that.

started the rehabbing last night
I am getting rid of the Zep and using Krud Kutter from now on. But I didn't want to shitcan what Zep I had left so I let the parts soak in it overnight. Before I tossed them in this bath I had sanded and wire brushed as much of the crud and grunge off the parts I could.

one last scrubbing
These will be going in EvapoRust next and I want to make I got all of the grime and crud off of them.

they are a lot cleaner
The Zep was a light, see through lime green color before I did the overnight bath trick. I took all the parts upstairs and rinsed them all with hot water.

these parts will be ready tomorrow
the frog
I wasn't going to put the frog in the EvapoRust but I had no choice. It is already flash rusting on the seat that won't be painted.

the frog side
Both sides at the bottom were orange with rust. I sanded these two places to bare metal and a few other rust spots too. After that I tossed them into the EvapoRust.

got a reply from Lee Valley
They are sending me another one and LV said that it had been tested to ensure 1/4" hex bits fit in it. They said I could do what ever I wanted with this one.

metric reading
I don't know what the tolerances for this would be but a 6mm hex bit should fit it this but maybe on the loose side?

undersized for a 1/4" (0.250) hex bit
phillips hex bit
I measured 6 bits and they were all around the same give or take a thousandth or two.

needle files
I didn't have a file that matched the width of the flats but a spear point kind of fit. I tried filing with that but the hex bit still wouldn't fit. It was worth a try now that I have a replacement coming.

finishing screwing the drawer
Last night after dinner I came to the shop looking for drawer slides screws and found a bunch of them. I put some in the slide that attaches to the drawer side and tonight I did the cabinet slides.

needed some help
I used my birdcage awl to make pilot holes before driving them home. I couldn't fully seat the screws with the ratcheting driver. I had to finish them with the hand screwdriver. Driving screws in plywood is never easy due to all the cross banding of the veneers.

marking the bottom
5/16" over
Which is the depth of the groove in the front of the drawer. This should be flush with the back of the drawer or just a hair proud.

1/2 a frog hair wide
This is as far as I dare to take this tonight. I am not 100% mentally with it, and I don't want an oops to happen to me here. If I feel better tomorrow, I'll make my 3 rabbets and fit it.

funny looking counter bore
I am going to try and drill a hole with this.

the other counter bore
Bad pic of this but the cutting edges look to be wicked sharp on this one. This has been recently sharpened too from the looks of it.

it worked
This is a scrap piece of Douglas Fir and it drilled the hole. No burning, no chattering, and it didn't stall as I applied even downward pressure. This wasn't what I expecting. I thought it wouldn't cut wet paper.

1" diameter
This counter bore drilled a very clean hole in this DF. It hard to get cleanly drilled holes in this wood but this did it. The circumference is very smooth and clean except for one small spot and the bottom is smooth and even. I don't need or use these very often but they are handy when you do need them.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that mendacious means not telling the truth, lying?

drawer fitted.......

Wed, 02/14/2018 - 12:34am
I did some work last night after dinner because I had to stay up due to the toilet trot races.  I also got some work done before I left to go to the hospital. I knew that once I got home from that I would be restricted in what I could do. Anesthesia does funny things to you for hours after it is stopped. I tried a few things that I thought didn't require any undue dexterity or overtaxing my limited mental faculties.

last night
After supper I rasped this cutout to the line and sanded it smooth. I glued 3 toothpicks into the bottom to help hold it together. The bottom is 5/16" thick and I don't have any screws small enough for this. The toothpicks should be more adequate for holding it together. I couldn't do the other side because I just epoxied it together before supper.

the following morning at oh dark thirty five
This is what the inside of the repair on this end looked like after I removed the tape.

curve rasped and the end cap sanded smooth
front of the curve
I can see where the break is at the top and bottom of the curve. A quick glance brings nothing and I'll leave this as is and call it a pitch pocket.

inside sanded smooth
The dark streak is from me sanding this with a finger sander that I had used previously to sand lever caps. This is why I want a set for woodworking and a set for metal. I had to sand this again with some clean 150 grit paper.

toothpick nails
I can get all 3 'nails' out of one toothpick. I chiseled off the pointed end and then divided what was left roughly in three. The toothpick is very close to a 1/16" diameter.


angled the two end 'nails' and the middle one went in at 90°
drilling pilot holes for a #6 screw
smallest driver
This one works well with #6 on down screws. I'm still having luck with keeping the blade in the slot as I drive them.

done
I am not going to put a clear finish on this nor am I going to paint it. The other tool cabinets and drawers don't have a finish so I'll keep this the same as them.

I can use the driver to open and close the drawer
It doesn't stick out that far and the brief time I worked at the bench, it wasn't a problem.

I will have to rehab this now (back from the hospital)
this part was easy
The gears look good with no chips, breaks, cracks, or missing teeth. It is dirty but I can clean it and paint it.

I'll need a spanner wrench
I have a lot of tools but I don't have even one spanner wrench. I have 3 different sized snap ring pliers but they won't work for this.

pin
This pin is for the bottom bevel gear and the shaft that the drill chuck threads on.

had to search for the top pin
I saw this pin on the handle's ferrule but I thought it was a dimple for holding it on. I was looking for a pin around the bevel gear itself. I still don't understand how the shaft for the top bevel gear works. The top of the shaft, at the handle, is pinned but what is keeping the bottom of the shaft, below the bevel gear, in place?

installing the drawer slides
 I don't know if this is right or wrong, but it is the way I do them. I like to put the drawer slides down close to the bottom edge. It makes sense to me that this would be the obvious place to put them.

spacer
I have both parts of slide together. The spacer will leave a 1/4" above the top of the drawer.

left side slide going in

I'm glad that I got a hex adapter for the Craftsman driver because the Stanley 131 is too long to fit inside the cabinet. I set the front end of the slide a 1/4" from the front of the cabinet.

it was the anesthesia that made me do this
I put the drawer side slides on backwards. On good point is the front is flush with the sides of the cabinet.

The closed end of the drawer side slide should be at the front of the drawer, not the back like I did it here.

the anesthesia is still playing with my head
I got the drawer slides swapped the correct way but now the drawer is proud.

why it is proud
I put the 1/4" from the end at the back of the drawer when it should have been at the front.

got my 1/4" clearance at the top of the drawer
I will duplicate this clearance between the two drawers.

it is working both ways
It is driving the screws into the pine like a dream. What I found surprising is it is also driving the screws out too and all the way.

The drawers only come with 8 screws. That means only two screws for each part of the drawer slides. I will be adding at least 2 more for each slide part. If I don't have any screws I think Lowes sells them.

I think I got it right this time
Three times is the charm for drawer slides too.

drawer closed and it is flush
The stock for the new drawer has stickered for a few days. I will rough cut the new drawer parts tomorrow and let them sticker for a day before dovetailing them. I stopped working on anything involving woodworking here. I invoked my two mistake rule and stopped any further woodworking.

one of the hardest spots to clean and degrease
the back of the frog is another spot
using Zep on the front and Krud Kutter at the back
the Zep is filthy
I cleaned this first with a nylon brush (at the top right) and then scrubbed it with the wire brush.

Krudd Kutter did better at the back
Both of these worked in cleaning but I think the Krud Kutter was several frog hairs better than the Zep at it. And the Krud Kutter is biodegradable while the Zep isn't.

Krud Kutter gets the brass ring
 I noticed that the rag for the Krud Kutter was noticeably more dirty and darker than the Zep one.  I'm liking the Krud stuff a lot more than the Zep.

got some new toys
All I wanted was the countersink for the brace but the S/H for it was more than the brace. I saw the two counter bores being offered for $10 each so I got them. Brand new they are a lot more then the price I paid. The top one will work in wood but the bottom one I'm not sure. The wings are flat with a slight bevel to them. I think this one was made to counter bore in metal. I'll try it on wood to see if I'm right or not.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a UK Duke or Duchess is addressed as "your grace"?

it is my turn........

Tue, 02/13/2018 - 2:19am
This morning when I left for work it was 55°F (13°C) and when I got to work it was almost 58°F (14.4°C). T shirt weather but wait, there is more. About 90 minutes later I had to go to my truck to get my k-cups and the temp had dropped to 47°F (8.3°C). Still not to bad of a temp for the second week of February, but a wee bit on the screwy side. Tonight it will dip into the low 20's F (-6.6°C). The temps will be on a roller coaster until later on in the week.

can we guess what this is?
Tomorrow morning I will have a colonoscopy. These pills and the Gatorade are the prep work I have to do tonight. At 2000, I have to drink another bottle of this stuff mixed with some powder. I'm glad all this only happens on one day.

holder set up
According the instructions I got from the hospital, I could have anywhere from 20 minutes to hours before I start the toilet trots. I tried to squeeze in what I could before that race started.

it is nose heavy
I think this is ok as is but if not I can add a circular holder at the nose later.

why it is nose heavy
There are two 'stops' on the screwdriver that these supports are on. They keep the screwdriver from shifting left/right.

flushed the back brace
I had to do something with the square look of this. A circular cutout will look better.

piece of cardboard
I used this to make a template so the two ends would be the same.

should have done this before I glued them on
But I didn't so I had to use the coping saw. This didn't go off so well because the saw is big, this is small, I had a hell of time clamping it so I could saw it, and one of the holders was in the way. Did I mention that I don't have a lot of practice with a coping saw? After the fact I realized that I should have turned the blade away from 90.

I had to use very short strokes
This side didn't come out that bad. I was off the line on top half of it and removed it on the bottom half.

Yikes!
It was very awkward sawing this end as it shows. Being in a hurry was a major contributor to this boo -boo also. Since I don't want to make another one, I'll fix this somehow.

flushed the drawer slips
Worked on this while I thought of how to fix the screw up I did with the coping saw.

epoxy and sawdust to the rescue
blue tape
This piece of tape will keep the epoxy and sawdust from oozing on through.

packed it with epoxy/sawdust mixture
I will let this set up and tomorrow I'll evaluate it as to whether or not I'll leave it as is and apply a clear finish. If it looks like crap, I'll paint it. I had to quit here because the race started.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know in liquid beer measures that a firkin equals 9.8 gallons?

drawer glued up.......

Mon, 02/12/2018 - 12:25am
Got the first drawer glued up and maybe tomorrow I'll be fitting the bottom on or in it. That depends upon how my spatial thinking is working at the time. I used hide glue on the drawer and the temps are cooperating. It's been raining all day but it is a bit on the warm side for this time of the year. It hit 51°F (10.5°C) today and the rest of week is looking to have mild temps in the 40's. Spring isn't too far away now. I have been hearing the birds singing every time I went outside today. That is another good sign for an early spring.

found my braces
I was very disappointed that the Lee Valley brace adapter is toast. It fits in all 6 of the braces I have but none of the hex bits will fit in it.

nice piece of chrome
pretty looking but useless
It is too light weight to repurpose as a paperweight. I'll email LV on this on monday and see what the solution is.

metric ball driver
I thought that since this was metric, the shank was metric too. It isn't (it's a 1/4") and it doesn't fit either.

hex driver fits
Not exactly what I was looking for here but in the interim it will do. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that LV can fix this.

hex adapter from LV fits
the phillips driver that came with the screwdriver
I wasn't sure that LV would have an adapter for this since it is a Craftsman. I measured the shaft of the phillips and it was 7mm. LV sells a 7mm adapter and it fits this perfectly.

drawer glued up
I used clamps on this to draw up the tails and pin tight. I had to fuss with the clamps for a bit to get the drawer square. With a square it looked good but the diagonals were off an 1/8".

diagonals re best
Charles Hayward advises not to use a square to check a carcass. Diagonals aren't influenced by bows and dips in the carcass. Both diagonals are dead nuts on.

front internal corner
the other front corner
I am now convinced that my gappy corners were caused by me moving the knife wall when I chopped the waste. I have done 4-5 dovetails now being careful not to move my knife walls and the results are better.

shined it a bit more
used this wheel
Had no problems with this wheel working. I couldn't stall this one no matter how hard I tried. Both wheels have the same buffing compound on them as I don't think I'll be using two different rouges.

this wheel stalls the motor, why?
I don't understand why one wheel buffs away and the other one will stall. It is the same motor and shaft driving both wheels.

found the problem
This nut was loose. Not fall off loose but a few threads shy of being tight. I tightened it and tried to stall the buffer again.

working now
I couldn't stall the motor after I tightened the nut on the shaft. It looks like I don't have a HF piece of crappola. I know nothing about buffing wheels but I saw a wider one at HF when I bought this. Makes sense to me that a wider wheel would probably buff a wide lever cap better than this thin one does?

thought I had only made one mistake
the first mistake
I sawed the back to width and since I had the front there too, I sawed it to the same width. Except the front did not have to be ripped to the same width as the back. I found both mistakes when I was starting to mark the baselines with my knife.

my second mistake is the pencil line is toast
I cut further down then I should have.

I used the drawer slip to mark the pencil line
but the wrong way
If I make a new back I still have the tails being over cut. Everyone of them is over cut by a 1/4". Using them may make the drawer weaker not to mention it will look like crap.

stopped at home depot
I had to go to BJ's warehouse to get my coffee k-cups but it wasn't open yet so I killed 20 minutes wandering around HD. I went looking for the rem oil again but came up dry on that but I saw this. Bob just blogged about using this on his drill rehab so I grabbed a bottle to try. I like that it is biodegradable and won't make me glow in the dark.

2 points for Krud  Kutter to 1 point for Zep
 It's made by Rustoleum who makes the primer and topcoat paint I use.

new drawer stock
This is the board I bought saturday and I'll be using it to make a new drawer.

I'll make this one wider
I'll let this sticker for a day or two,

fitting the first drawer slip
back end fitted around the back
gluing them in with hide glue
1/4" brass set up bar
Used this to keep the front aligned while I put on the clamps.

used one at the back too
slips glued and clamped
holder prototyping
put it here
or underneath the drawer
drilled some pilot holes
road tested my new hex adapter
sweet action - better then using a drill
this is out
In order for this work I will have to hang it down fairly low so I can take it out and put it back.

this is the winning spot
making dadoes
routed to depth
made a notch for the back brace
glued up
I think I may promote this from prototype to user status. I'll make the final decision on that tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Five Kingdoms of Living Things are Animals, Fungi, Monera, Plants, and  Protists?

first drawer started.......

Sun, 02/11/2018 - 2:33am
On the way home from OT I stopped at Lowes to pick up some supplies. I like stopping here on saturday because there is zero traffic and almost no one out and about. Lowes is pretty much empty too. The only quibble I have with is this Lowes is laid out differently then the Lowes I usually go to. One of the guys working there said it laid out the same but I beg to differ with him. Maybe the major departments are the same but all the goodies aren't in the same holes.

Lowes goodies
Double balls steel wool for the Tru-oil, 1x12 for drawer fronts, and a 2'x4'x 1/2" piece of plywood for the drawer bottoms.

already cupping
Hasn't been in the shop for an hour yet and it is already doing stupid wood tricks. This was flat at Lowes because I checked it with a framing square.

backup 1x12
This is a sweet piece of EWP that I would rather not use for drawer parts. If I have to I will. It depends on how much wood I have to remove to get the Lowes board flat.

sometimes you get lucky
I got these boards from the same Lowes I got the new 1x12 from. These have been sawn to rough length and width and they are all still flat, straight, and not cupped. Even the squirrely grain one that I thought for sure would head south on me. I will be making drawers today with this stock.

1/2" oak plywood
The drawers will be roughly 2 foot square which means they are big. I think they are too big for 1/4" plywood bottoms. My first choice was 3/8 ply but every single piece at Lowes was bowed or cupped. Oak is cheaper then birch so I bought that. The 1/2" will make for a strong and stiff drawer along with the 3/4" drawer parts.

5 coats
I have one more to spray on and these will be done.

practice tote
The plan is to use this tote that was broken and I screwed up gluing it back together. nhfortyeight sent me a couple of pics of stock finished with Tru-oil. One was a tote and the other a tiger maple frame. Wow is all I can say and I can't wait to see if I can duplicate what he did. I tried to copy and paste the tote pic but I couldn't figure out how to do it. Which is ok because in my haste to do that I didn't get the ok from him to do that.

ratcheting screwdrivers
I think I got all the sizes and they all work flawlessly. Now that I have had them a while I have realized that they aren't a replacement for a drill, powered by batteries or a cord. Now that I know their limitations, I can work around them because I still love using these things.

The smallest one is delicate. It came with 3 flat blades and I got a hex adapter to increase it's versatility. I haven't any problems with driving screws with the flat blades. Go figure on that. I was sure that I would be doing the hop and bounce dance steps with it for sure. Nope. The only problem I have had with driving slotted screws is getting the blade in the slot.

my driver collection
The three bits on the lower left I can't use in any of ratcheting drivers because they have round shanks. All the rest fit in the hex adapters.

the 3 flat blades
I didn't think I would use these but I have several times. I have a boatload of small slotted brass screws - from #3 up to a #6 . I can get one of these to fit well with that screw selection I have.

one hiccup
I got these mostly to drive screws, be it in or out. They all do that but not well. I use spax screws and they don't require a pilot hole to be drilled first. The two biggest drivers struggled to do that sans the pilot hole. The smallest one said no mas, no mas. It wouldn't drive it even with a pilot hole.

With a pilot hole, the two biggest ones work well driving them in but not so well driving them out. That I can understand was there is no pressure exerted on the screw backing them out with these. The small one worked with a pilot hole with #6 and #5 screws. It struggled without success trying a #8 spax screw.

I like using these because in spite of my arthritis, these don't hurt to use. Sometimes I get twinges in my wrist and fingers when I use my battery drills. They are good addition to my shop.

I keep the two small ones in here
The big Stanley won't fit in this drawer. I may revisit the holder idea I had for putting on the front of my drawer. I like having all 3 of these right by the bench.

it's home for now
 Until I think of something else, I'll keep it with my go to herd of bench planes.

drawer stock prep
After I checked and corrected each board for twist, I planed the two faces smooth just removing the machine marks. I didn't go nutso and plane to thickness. I just want to get the boards reasonably flat, twist free, and smooth..

the one board with the squirrely grain
This board had the most twist. Not cupped at all but it took 4 planing trips and checking before I declared it twist free.

squared up one end
I then marked the length on one board and knifed my line. I used that board to mark all the other boards.  Two boards I could plane to the line on the other two I sawed most of the waste off first. Theses are the fronts and backs. I did a wash, rinse, and repeat for the sides.

just fits between the slides
the two drawers are ready for dovetailing
the 4 1/2 spitting out even shavings R/M/L
they all look a wee bit better
#4 needs a home
The 5 1/2, 4 1/2, 10 1/2, and the woodie are my go to planes. I keep them here at the left corner of the bench ready to grab and use. The #4 is the one I'm taking to my class in june and I don't have any other place for it to call home. I'll keep it here for the time being.

marking the pins
Had a choice of doing both drawers at the same time or one at a time. Since I don't a clock to punch on this I went with one at a time.

drawer slips
I am using 3/4" stock for the sides so I could plow grooves in them without any problems but I'm going to use slips. That is why the bottom doesn't have a half pin - so the bottom can be slid in.

this part still revs my motor - will it fit?
yes and no
No it didn't fit off the saw and yes it did after a wee bit of fitting and trimming and cursing and repeating the trimming and fitting. It has been a while since I have dovetailed in 3/4" stock. It seems I've done a boatload of them in 1/2" stock lately. The drawer is a 16th off on the diagonals here.

fits
a frog hair from being tight between the slides
setting the depth
Using the Record 044 to make sure it is still functioning as it should. I set the depth and then checked all the screws were tight and the fence was parallel to the skate. Plowed the groove in the front with no hiccups.

stock for the drawer slips
I used the straightest grained off cut to make the drawer slips. I squared both edges because I will get two slips out of each board.

it's working
I checked the depth shoe after each groove along with all the other thumbscrews. The plow is working and it will be a good plane for Miles to have. I don't think or anticipate any more speed bumps with this plow.

 4 slips
test piece
I made a test piece out of some scrap to ensure that I wouldn't be proud of the bottom. Close, but not proud. If I had been I would plane a bevel and leave a space between the bottom of the top drawer and the top of the second drawer.

a saturday UPS delivery
This was totally unexpected. This is my Lee Valley free shipping order and I have never gotten a saturday UPS delivery from them before. Top left going to the right, a 3/4" cup and washer magnet set. Big stick of brown rouge and another set of 3/4" cup and washer magnets. Bottom left is a 1/4" adapter for a brace, hex adapter for my Craftsmen ratcheting screwdriver, and my Blue Tooth transmitter doggle. The BT was mentioned only because it is in the pic.

I tried the adapter in my brace and got a big disappointment. None of my 1/4" hex stuff will fit in the brace adapter. I'll have to email Lee Valley about that one.

3/4 inch washer and cup magnets
I got these to maybe use on the drawers for the tool cabinet. They are a lot stronger than the 1/2" and 3/8" magnets I used to hold the squares in my square till box. I think that they may be too big to use on the tool cabinet drawers. I'll have to wait and see how that shakes out a bit further on down the line.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that 6 wickets and one wooden stake are used in tournament croquet?

out for dinner.....

Sat, 02/10/2018 - 12:18am
I didn't have fish n' chips this time. My wife asked me if I was having heart attack when I ordered a steak for dinner. Sometimes you have to throw a curve to keep everyone guessing. I got a baked potato with broccoli and I washed it down with a Sam Adams lager. I don't drink often but I do like a beer now and then, usually with fish n' chips or in this case, a steak.


4 1/2 tote and knob
I nixed the Tru- oil for these two. I read the instructions and it says to wait 24 hours between applications and that would mean 4-5 days before they would be done. Shellac I can spray on a bazillion in a couple of hours. That is why I went with it. I already have two coats sprayed on and I'll be using the 4 1/2 this weekend.

Another point with the Tru-oil is it says to wipe it down between coats with 00 (double zero) steel wool. All I have in the shop is 4-0. That means a trip to Wally World but I don't remember seeing any steel wool my last time in there. Wally World just got done with their *^@((%@!$%&*# lets move and rearrange everything. People have gotten used to where things are so it's time to change stock locations. So I'm not even sure that Wally World still sells it. They don't sell shellac anymore, be it quarts or rattle cans. And they cut way back on the sandpaper they used to sell.

don't like this wild grain
This is from the board that is giving up the two fronts. The other part of this board has straight grain but around the 1/2 way point it went on a bender. It is still flat and straight after almost a week in the shop. And it didn't move when I cut it to width so maybe I'm worrying about it for nothing. If it is still flat tomorrow I'll use it when I make the drawers. If not, I have a 1x12 cutoff that I can get a drawer front from.

the sides
I used the two boards with the straightest grain for the sides. It is important that these boards stay flat and straight.

the drawer slides
The drawer slides drove the side stock selection. I only have a 32nd of leeway with the width. If the stock cups, I'm screwed. If it does that it could stop the slides from opening/closing freely. They could bind and say I ain't opening at all. It isn't much of a problem if I was using plywood but I'm not.

my last time using drawer slides
This is a filing cabinet I made for my wife a few years ago.

the last time I used the Leigh Jig to make dovetails too
These slides have the same 32nd tolerance that the ones I'm using now have. Rather them make myself nutso, I made the drawer width an 1/8 over. If I had made the width too narrow I would have been screwed and had to make a new drawer. Being oversized, I planed the sides until it fit within the 32nd tolerance.

put a pencil drawer in the top one
My wife didn't want both drawers to hold files so I had some freedom here.

bottom drawer
She doesn't use it to keep files anymore. It has become her pocketbook drawer now. Did you notice that I swapped the tails and pins over what I did on the top drawer? I have no finish on any of the three drawers and they are still flat and cup free years later. Putting finish on drawers is another myth I don't buy into.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the maximum circumference of a standard bowling can not exceed 27.002 inches?

How I rehab planes......

Fri, 02/09/2018 - 12:47am
I got a comment from Andrew about my painting technique so I decided to expand on it. I will give a brief overview of how I rehab a plane. I am not a purist, or a collector. Any planes that I rehab are done with respect to get that plane to user status first and foremost. Lately my anal side took over and I've been going nutso getting the planes to look as good and shiny as possible. If you are interested in keeping patina then don't read any further.  I will take shiny and good looking over patina everyday of the week 24/365.

still straight and cup free
I will let this sticker for one more day.

primer I use
The steps I do now are the level of rehabbing I have grow to. I have learned and improved a bit more with each plane I've done but I think I have finally reached the top of things that can be done. I use spray primer only because I haven't found a can of it yet. I would rather brush this on vice spraying. I use this primer because I use Rustoleum enamel paint as my topcoat.

the plane interior
This is the only area I spray primer on. I tape off the sides and bottom and spray away. Another reason I chose this spray primer is that I can spray at any angle. That helps when trying to spray into the corners of the vertical surfaces.

Before I spray the primer I scrape and clean the body with degreaser. I then apply the stripper. After I strip the interior I scrape and sand it as best I can. Sandblasting it would be the best choice here.  Before I spray on the primer, I clean the body one last time with acetone.

Rustoleum oil based black enamel
I put on two coats of black enamel and I haven't had to use more than two on any plane I've done so far. I have used this brush on every rehab that I have painted and it is still working ok. I use oil based enamel because one it is shiny and will stay this way. And two, this is a durable paint that once it has set shouldn't chip readily. It should provide protection and shine for this plane for a whole lot of years.

sole
My reasoning for going nutso on the sole is that doing it this way will make it slick and easier to push. There should be less friction between the stock and the sole. I sand starting with 80 grit but that depends on the condition of the sole and I may jump up to a higher grit to start with. After 80 I use 120, 180, 220, 320, 400, and finish with 600. I could go further but this is shiny enough for me here. The last step for the sole and the cheeks is to apply Autosol. The Autosol imparts a little more shine but it protects the plane for several months.

you decide
Patina from age or shine from a little time and muscle?

made big improvements with the frogs
When I first started rehabbing I avoided the frog because I was intimidated by it. I was fearful of breaking something so I basically left them alone. I don't prime them before painting them but I do remove as much japanning as I can. I follow that up with a good cleaning with acetone and then two topcoats.

One thing I do now is remove the yoke. It is a simple matter of punching out the pin that holds it. It's just as easy to replace. I haven't gotten up the courage to try and remove the lateral adjust lever. I read a couple of blogs where they remove the lateral adjust and pin it again and peen it over. I may buy a frog to practice on because that would make painting the frog even easier to do.

frog face
 I was just sanding this until it was flat. If it got smooth that was bonus but getting it flat was the number one reason for sanding it. Now I'm getting it flat and then shining it up to 600 grit and I like that look.. I start with 150, then 220, 320, 400, and stop at 600. I use Autosol on the face only as my final step.

lever caps
The left cap is from a #4 I rehabbed several years ago. I concentrated my efforts then mostly to remove rust and I didn't try shining this up. I only discovered that I could shine these up by accident. One cap had a scratch on the face and I tried to sand it out and noticed that it was getting shiny. I am sanding the lever caps with the same grits as the frog faces.

frog from a rehabbed #4
Usually the sides of the sides are rough and bumpy. I'm sure that this is the way they came from being cast and this surface didn't get any love. Filing the sides of the frog I found is very easy to do. I now file the frog sides smooth removing the bumps and rough casting marks.

4 1/2 frog
This was rougher than the #4 frog up above before I filed and painted it.

spray painted on the left  and brushed on the right
I no longer spray the topcoat because it is a PITA. I like brushing. I am a good painter and I enjoy painting the top coat. More importantly I think the results are better than what I got spraying it. The sprayed coat is an Engine paint if I remember. That is what was recommended but it is dull and listless looking. When I go back and rehab this #3 again, painting it and the frog with the enamel paint will perk it up a lot.

4 1/2 on up have toe screws on the totes
I replace the steel toe screws with a brass ones. I get them from Bill Rittner here. He also makes replacement totes and knobs. I have been finishing the knobs and totes with shellac but I am going to try using Tru-oil instead.

Stanley barrel nuts
The ones on the left were used first by Stanley and then switched to the style on the left. Or maybe it was the other way around. Here's my take on them - the ones on the left I don't like and I don't use. I like the solid barrel nuts but these being brass they usually have the snot beat out of the slot. Bill Rittner sells replacements.

These are Bill Rittner replacement nuts
I can't tell the difference between Bill's barrel nuts and the original ones. Like all brass, the shine doesn't last.

the small parts
I remove all loose rust, clean, and degrease all the small parts first. I clean the threads with the wire brush and the dental pick. I then give them an EvapoRust bath. Out of the bath I'll sand the flats where I can and the stud barrels.

oiling the small parts is next
I only use the oil on the steel parts. No oil on any of the brass parts.

almost forgot about the adjuster knob
I've been cleaning and shining up the knob with this. You can get this at any grocery store or Wally World. This is the best stuff I've used to clean up the adjuster knobs. Even the filthy, grungy, dirty ones too.

tale of two knobs
The knob on the bottom left was cleaned and shined with Bar Keeps and then I used Autosol on it. The knob on the right is from the #4 I just got done rehabbing. That knob was only done with Bar Keeps and it is shiny but the Autosol knob is 3 frog hairs shinier. And it has a nice soft luster to it that the Bar Keeps one doesn't have.  I'll keep using the Bar Keeps and finishing them with Autosol. I can see a difference in the two that I couldn't capture with this pic.

this is a must
You will need a container of some kind to keep the parts together after you take the plane down to parade rest. This is a cereal container and I have boatload of them. Another choice would a chinese take out container. Always a good thing to have a few of them in the shop.

finger sanders
I got these from Lowes and if I remember correctly they are made by Shop Smith? They are flexible and conform nicely to the shape of the lever cap. Huge improvement in sanding with these over holding the sandpaper in your fingers. I'll be buying another set just for woodworking and I'll keep these dirty ones for metal work.

sanding blocks
I don't know how I did all the sanding before without these. They are various sized blocks of wood that I glued 1/4" thick cork to. I was doing the sanding by hand but no more - these sanding blocks are worth their weight in gold as far as I'm concerned..

needs some wood
This is basically how I now rehab a plane. This 4 1/2 is a daily user for  me and one that I am doing the rehab over on. I painted the body and the frog. I shined the lever cap and frog and once the tote and knob get some finish, this will take it's place at the top left corner of my bench.

I haven't given up on this yet
Lee Valley started their free shipping for orders over $40 and my order this morning came to $40.60. I bought some brown rouge that I hope will work on these wheels. I want to try them with the LV rouge before I buy another buffing wheel.

bought an adapter for the Craftsman ratcheting screwdriver
I bought the hex adapter for this and one for my braces. I am looking to get a 5 or 6 inch sweep brace that I can use to drive big blots or screws. I rounded out my order from LV with a set of cup and washer magnet sets that I might use on the rolling tool cabinet.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Japanese Nintendo Company made playing cards before it made computer games?

drawer prep......

Thu, 02/08/2018 - 1:00am
I was hoping to get the 4 1/2 together sans the knob and tote but it didn't happen. I started to do it but noticed a paint boo boo that I had to touch up. Tomorrow I should be able to get it put together without the wooden parts. The knob and tote still need to stripped and sanded so I can put a finish on them.

came in today
I'm thinking of using this on the 4 1/2 tote and knob. The only problem I see with it is that I've used shellac on every one of the other rehabs so far. I if put on this one it will stick out like the red headed stuttering step child. I've been thinking about it since I put it on the bench on which way to go with it. I think I'll put it on the 4 1/2 and if I like it, the 5 1/2 will get it too. It has shellac which I can easily strip off.

600 grit shine
Right below my baby finger is a patch on the lever cap. The sanding up to 600 grit blended it into the lever cap and made it noticeably less visible. I spent a few extra minutes sanding it more but I don't think I'll get it any better than this. I thought of buying another lever cap but I am going to keep this one.

the paint boo boo
I got this when I scraped the seats down here. I also have another one on both cheek walls and up by the upper frog seats. I got the ones here from sanded the frog seats.

drawer stock 1x8 - actually 7 1/2"

48 inches long
If I am lucky I could get two boards out of each about 3 1/2 inches wide. If I go this way I can get one drawer out of one board. That isn't always the case though. Straightening out one edge can eat up a lot of width if it is bowed or wonky in any other way. I don't have good luck with planing multiple boards to the same width and that is where I tend to lose a lot of width.

I bought 4 boards because my original intent was to use two boards to make one drawer. I am going to stick to that because I want the drawers to be 4 1/2 inches deep. Allowing for the groove and bottom will give an interior drawer depth of 4".

brown and red knot
The brown knot is on the side of the board I'll be keeping. After the drawer is done I'll epoxy the brown knot so it won't shrink and fall out.

this brown knot fell out
This knot was there when I brought this home. No matter as it is on the waste side of the board.

the knot board will give up the two backs

some weird grain about 2/3 of the way down
The straightest grained boards will be used for the sides. I don't like the grain swirl in this board so I'll use it for the fronts.

reference edge and face
 I ripped this a 16th over. I will plane the reference face flat before I cross cut out the drawer parts.

they are pretty straight and flat
I was very encouraged after looking at these tonight. I bought them on sunday and before I sawed them out they looked like this. Usually 1x pine from Lowes cups and bows after one day in the shop. Tomorrow I'll flatten one side and remove any twist. I'll let that sit and sticker for another day. I might get to dovetailing by friday.

scraped the front knob
I sanded it after I had scraped all of the finish off.

filed a fresh burr
raising a burr on the knife is very easy to do and it only takes a few seconds. I file the bevel on the sheet rock knife a few strokes. That puts a burr on the opposite side and it usually lasts long enough to scrape the whole knob.

ready for sanding
I can tell I scraped all the finish off because there isn't anything shiny left anywhere on the knob.

My father-in-law is out the ICU and on the regular ward. He may be discharged tomorrow to the rehab unit which is next door to the hospital. It doesn't look like he'll be going home but to a nursing home after rehab.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Henry Stanley of "Dr Livingston, I presume....." fame fought for both the south and the north in the American Civil War?

almost no shop time.......

Wed, 02/07/2018 - 12:26am
My father-in-law is still in ICU and his condition is unchanged. The doctors think that when he fell last week that it was caused by a stroke he suffered then and there. He also has mild dementia and that is getting worse with each passing week. It makes me sad me that he doesn't recognize his wife of almost 70 years anymore. He won't be going home but will going into a nursing home when and if he is discharged. That and this hospitalization, is the only time that he has ever been apart from his wife.

When I got home I could have spent more time in the shop but I didn't. I was thinking of my wife's father and my father. He passed on when he was 69. I could have gone and seen him at the hospital the night he was admitted but my wife's best friend was his nurse and she said he needed to rest and I should come see him the following day. He died the next morning at 0625 and I never got to see him. Not going to see him when I could have is a regret that I still feel over 20 years later.

frog is done
It took me a few minutes to get going here.The sanding broke me out of my funk but I didn't get the plane put back together. No matter as I didn't have much interest in doing that. I got the frog face sanded with 400 and 600 grit. I believe I found another step to add to my rehabbing.

been a while since I posted a blurry pic
What the pic is attempting to show is the comparison between the knob on left with Autosol on it and the knob on the right which was done with Bar Keeps Best Friend. I'll be putting Autosol on the knobs from now on. I will clean them first with Bar Keeps and use Autosol on them. The Autosol imparts a much higher shine and regular readers know how much I like shiny things.

Autosol on the frog
The pic doesn't show it that well but this frog looks great. I can still see a few scratch lines here and there but the face is shiny. I think I could shave with this because I can see myself in it. This may seem like a wasted step because who will see it? Me, and I will know that I have done it. I think it is just one step in the whole of making the plane look as good as I possibly can.

rough looking heel ends
I tried to sand this with the 150 grit sanding stick and it just laughed at me. It barely sanded a bit on the top and bottom edge. I reached for file because Ive found it is quick and easy to file any parts of the plane.

less then a minute on each side
The roughness is gone and there is bit of shine. I sanded it with the 150 grit sandpaper and it looks better now. Not as shiny smooth as the toe but much better than what it looked it.

who knew?
I sanded the lever cap up to 600 grit but the shine isn't as good as the frog face or the plane body. It is better, to my eye, then the patina look it had previously. I have sanded the caps on past rehabs but it was to remove rust, not raise a shine. I finished the plane body sanding too but didn't do the Autosol. Decided to quit here for the night. The sun will still rise tomorrow, I think.

tote 80% ready, knob 0%
Looking at these two pieces of wood made me think of what would happen to them if my dance ticket got punched tonight? Would someone even bother to put the 4 1/2 back together? Would they even know what these are for? While I was eating dinner I realized that it wouldn't mean diddly squat to me. But as long as my dance card is still active it will.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Brazilian jockey Jorge Ricardo recently tied record holder Canadian jockey Russell Blaze with 12,488 wins?

closing in on the 4 1/2......

Tue, 02/06/2018 - 1:17am
I have noticed a few issues with rehabbing so many tools lately. Doing this generates a lot of dirty, fine metallic dust. And I mean a lot of it. I have had 4 eye infections doing these and I'm sure it was from having dust on my fingers and wiping my nose or forehead. I said that I would wear gloves and dust mask but I wasn't very diligent in doing that. Another problem was getting the dust on my clothes and bringing it upstairs. That wasn't to bad of a problem but one plane I did, the dust it generated had a stench to it that would make a buzzard gag. So when I resume rehabbing in a few weeks I'll try to remember to use gloves, a dust mask, and wear a work apron.

from coat #1
Before I put on the second and final coat, I removed this from the sole.

ten seconds with 400 grit - you don't need a heavy grit
the body will be ready tomorrow
the frog is 99% done
I scraped the paint from the edges and sanded it with a 150 grit sandpaper stick.

trying toothpaste
I sanded this just enough to remove the paint. I am curious to see how toothpaste will work. I put it on the left side only so I could compare it to the right side.

I don't see an improvement
Both sides had scratches from the 150 grit I just used and the toothpaste didn't touch them. I also don't see a difference in shine between the two sides. I'm not giving up this yet and I'll try another brand of toothpaste. I am thinking maybe this sensitive toothpaste doesn't have much abrasive in it. I'll stop a Wally World and get a cleaning, whiting brand. That should have some abrasive in it.

WOW
 I didn't use Bar Keeps first but went right to the Autosol. The shine I got here is 10 times better than what I can get with Bar Keeps. I will try it on the rest of the knob and see how shines that up.

tote scraped and sanded to 120 grit
The tote and knob will hold up getting the 4 1/2 back together. I still have to scrape and sand the knob and spray on a few coats of shellac. I may hold off on the shellac because I bought some Tru-Oil and I should have it by thursday. Steve said that is what he uses on his tote and knobs so I may try it on this plane.

Stopped here because I got an email from my wife telling me that her father is in the ICU. The doctors said he had a stroke and has bleeding on the brain. We won't know anything for few days but it seems things aren't as serious as it seems. My fingers on crossed on this.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that baseball pitching great Sandy Koufax won a college athletic scholarship for basketball?

Pages