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Pegs and 'Tails - Tue, 02/20/2018 - 4:14pm
There has been a recent surge (if two emails in the same week qualifies as a surge) of enquiries regarding the appropriateness of ‘finishing’ (in the modern tongue, applying some sort of varnish or lacquer) the interiors of drawers and … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

Upcoming: Advice for Aspiring Writers

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Tue, 02/20/2018 - 9:59am

I moved slowly, advancing through the rough landscape in search of my elusive quarry. I could sense that I was close. A turn here, another there, and… Aha, found it! I uncapped my red pen with a satisfying pop and drew a red circle around the end of a sentence. Three words, linked together inseparably but missing that penultimate punctuation: The Oxford Comma. Another copy editing crisis averted.

The world of drop caps and compound modifiers hasn’t exactly been my professional stomping grounds in the past, but I find the editing process to be among the most satisfying tasks in the life of M&T. We like to think of this as a team sport, with Megan, Joshua, Jim, and me tossing the ball “around the horn” as we work on refining a given article or project. Some of us have greater strengths in certain areas – Megan, for instance, has more experience in editing copy than the rest of us combined, while Jim can spot a compelling narrative a mile away. Joshua is able to maintain the big-picture vision of the magazine, cutting out the fat from a piece while leaving the vital parts stronger. I thoroughly enjoy circling incorrect punctuation with a red pen, and love precise details.

As Issue Four moves ever closer to completion, we are planning to share some thoughts and advice here on the blog for aspiring writers, bloggers, and photographers. Part of our mission at M&T is to form each issue to be thoughtful, compelling, and beautiful, and we’d like to share some of our methods with those folks who might be interested in documenting their own work. Even though we don’t take submissions from readers for articles, we see a great value in having many voices sharing in the conversation. There is a revival going on in the world of hand-tool woodworking, and having the ability to clearly articulate discoveries, explorations, and projects finished will benefit all of us.

So sharpen your pencils, pull out your notebook and camera, and start that blog to chronicle your journey. And don’t forget the Oxford Comma – it is literally worth its weight in gold.

~Mike Updegraff

 

Categories: Hand Tools

Alan Peters No 7 Bedrock Plane for Sale

David Barron Furniture - Tue, 02/20/2018 - 9:56am

A unique opportunity to buy Alan Peters No 7 plane. He used this plane all the time, even for small work and it comes with a letter of authenticity from his wife Laura.


The plane itself is an early Bedrock 607 from around 1900 but has a later lever cap, blade and front knob. These were no doubt replaced by Alan to improve performance and the plane should certainly work very well. You can see the E Bay listing here.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alan-Peters-Owned-Stanley-607-Plane/202231878097?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649


Categories: Hand Tools

Ash splint backpack video

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Tue, 02/20/2018 - 9:27am
If you enjoyed 'My father's tools', settle down for another wonderful film about weaving ash splint baskets. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

How to Create Precise Joints in Reclaimed Lumber

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 02/20/2018 - 6:23am

A board with a straight, flat face with one square edge is widely considered a fundamental requirement for precision work such as joinery. Given this basic condition, all good things are possible (at least, in principle): accurate measurements, square shoulders, straight tenons. But a current dining table commission challenged how I think about this set of conditions and forced me to come up with an alternative that would facilitate solid […]

The post How to Create Precise Joints in Reclaimed Lumber appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Rewinding DeArmond Hershey Bar Pickups

James Roadman Instrument Repair - Tue, 02/20/2018 - 5:17am

I had these DeArmond Hershey Bar pickups come into the shop for rewinding recently.  These pose a couple of challenges – the covers are riveted to the pickup and the coil is wound around the magnet which is unsupported on top.

I am sure the proper rivets are commercially available but I wasn’t able to figure out where to get the proper ones.  The world of rivets is more varied than one might expect.  Considering how often I do this repair it was just easier to make them.  I had some 3/16 nickel rod on hand it is not too difficult to machine them on the lathe.

To wind the coils I made a temporary support that was bolted onto the bobbin with cellophane tape in between.  I was able to wax pot the coil to make it more solid before removing the support.

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The post Rewinding DeArmond Hershey Bar Pickups appeared first on James Roadman Instrument Repair.

Categories: Luthiery

The Tool Chest Factory

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Tue, 02/20/2018 - 4:00am

tool_chest_panels_IMG_0631

When I wrote “The Anarchist’s Tool Chest,” I didn’t think a single person would actually build the chest shown in the book. That’s why I greatly condensed my construction instructions, and I eliminated chapters for a traveling version and a Dutch chest.

Six years later, building these tool chests comprises a significant portion of my income. This is both surprising and heartening. Yes, wall-hung tool cabinets and racks are great – no argument. But there is something about a tool chest that appeals to certain woodworkers.

I have been working out of a tool chest since 1997 and – after using racks and cabinets – am deeply satisfied with my choice.

This week I have launched into building two full-size chests for special customers. Both chests will have a full suite of hardware from blacksmith Peter Ross. Plus lots of details I’ve been itching to try, and some new ideas from the customers that I’m quite excited about.

I’ll document their construction here – not so much to generate additional business (I have 14 commissions lined up for 2018), but to make up for the lightweight instructions in the book.

First up: Choosing lumber and gluing up the panels. Look for it soon.

— Christopher Schwarz

Categories: Hand Tools

rolling tool cabinet pt ?.........

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 02/20/2018 - 12:33am
Today was a federal holiday and I had it off from work. I put it to good use and made a ton of progress on the tool cabinet. I am almost down to the short strokes on it and maybe by this weekend I'll be organizing what goes in it. I've decided to paint it so that will add 3-4 days before I reach the finish line. Made a few other changes on the fly but nothing is carved in stone yet.

I was going to post the final part on the Miles's toolbox but that will come tomorrow. I planned on doing it today but I got in a groove with the tool cabinet and went with the flow. I did think of it a couple of times.  But I did one more thing on the tool cabinet and that led to another and the toolbox update was forgotten.

sunday night
I wasn't going to glue this up today but I went to the shop after supper and did it. I forgot I had monday off and doing this then would mean that it would be ready in the AM. This is the tray for the top of the toolbox. It doesn't need a bottom because the top of the tool cabinet will be that.

I had to do something with this
The workbench top looked funny to me. It wasn't really clean and looked a pot holed road with dirty patches all over. Scraping this was quite the workout.

I think it is a big improvement
I am not that anal retentive about my workbench getting dirty. This old girl has a lot of scars on her from the past 26 years of use. One thing I won't do is nail or screw into the workbench. For whatever reason I can't bring myself to do it. I'm ok if I goof and accidentally saw into it but the line in the sand for me is nailing or screwing.

flushing the tray
I made sure the bottom was flushed all around and twist free. The bottom will be glued to the tool cabinet. The top of the tray, I just flushed the corners and planed it smooth.

cleaned up the second drawer
I was going to just clean up the front because I'll be attaching a drawer front to it. But I went ahead and cleaned up the other sides too.

flushing the two corners
The bottom of the drawer just has to be flushed at the two front corners. I also checked and ensured that the planing was square to the sides because that is where I referenced the centerline for the drawer slides.

making sure there is no twist on the bottom
just cleaned up the top
There is no need to check this and remove any twist. Smoothed it and erased all the pencil marks and I called drawer #2 done.

getting ready to install the drawer slips
This frees up both hands so I can knife the two marks I need.

using yellow glue on these
I had some errands to do, among them was renewing my registration on the truck. While I was doing that this yellow glue would have set up sufficiently that I could keep working on the drawer.

1/4" spacers
I only have two 1/4" brass set up bars but I wanted to get both slips glued up before I left. I split off these two pieces and planed them to a 1/4" square. I covered them with wax and glued the slip in place. These set the correct spacing of the drawer slip grooves at the front and the back of the drawer.

went 1 for 1
I installed one of these correctly and the other one I put on backwards. Still it was an improvement from drawer #1 when I installed them wrong 3 times.

marking for the cabinet side drawer slide
 Transferred the center line of the drawer slide to cabinet side. I put a piece of 1/8" plywood between the drawers to space them apart. I then marked where the top of the cabinet side drawer slide was.

drawer slide spacer
This spacer goes from the bottom of the top drawer slide to the top of the 2nd drawer slide.

I didn't like this
The drawers are opening and closing without any problems but I'm not comfortable with the 1/8" clearance. I don't expect the drawers to expand so much that they will touch each other, but I would have a warm and fuzzy with a bigger gap.

added an 1/8" and reinstalled the guides

1/4" clearance and I have on my happy face
plenty of clearance on the slide out tray
finally done
It took 8 dance steps before I got my card punched and this fit. I wanted this to be on the snug side and I got it. The slips are slightly proud of the bottom of the drawer and I left them that way. They won't be seen and I wanted to keep them as thick as possible for strength reasons.

had a mind fart
Everything else was going so well and then this. When I measured the front to back, I forgot to add the 5/16" depth for the front groove.

drilling for the screws
I can't put the screws in the plywood because it is almost centered on the width of the back of the drawer. I clamped this block of wood and drilled a pilot hole on the joint line between them.

screws installed
I glued the front of the drawer in the groove (hide glue) so these screws will keep the bottom in place. I don't have to be concerned with expansion or contraction because the bottom is plywood.

glued the tray onto the top
I used hide glue on this for just in case. I don't anticipate changing this but I may have to repair it and hide glue is reversible.

change 1
The original plan was to get all 3 drawer fronts out of this piece of plywood. I changed my mind and I'll be painting this so I don't need this continuous grain match for the drawers.

change 2
I was going to make the drawer fronts out of this 1/2" thick pine. It would have worked on the the two top drawers but not the slide out tray. The front for the slide out tray is tall and will only be attached at the bottom. I don't think 1/2" pine would be able to withstand the stresses of opening and closing the tray. And I would also have had to glue two pieces of pine together to get the required width.

old kitchen door pieces
 I think I got the width needed for each drawer front but the length is iffy on drawer #1 and the sliding tray.

I was right
The stock for the second drawer is 2" over in the length while the sliding tray and #1 drawer are 1 1/2" shy.

the ends are long grain
These are going to be painted so any glued on parts will be invisible. Having long grain on the edges will make the glue up easier for me.

old hinge and handle screw holes
Some of these I can hide by putting this side against the the drawer boxes. Any holes on the face side I can fill with Dunham's Putty.

ugly looking
Not only is it black but it is also deep. This will go against the drawer box and be hidden.

didn't get lucky here
I got two pieces here, one with long grain and this one with end grain. I needed two pieces 14" long for the sliding tray length. I only got one.

using a piece of pine on the other end
I need a finished length of about 25 1/2" inches. Without this piece of pine I am an 1/8" shy.

they'll be ready to finish out tomorrow
Accidental Woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that President Thomas Jefferson invented the first hide-away bed?

Campaign bed, frame saw style

Mulesaw - Mon, 02/19/2018 - 11:46pm
At some point I got inspired to build a campaign bed.
I trawled the Net for inspiration, and ended up finding this bed.

The original looks as it is made out of beech, which is a traditional furniture wood over her, but as usual I wanted to make it out of larch. Because it is what I have.

I have never seen one of those beds in real life, but based on that the overall dimensions are 80" x 32" that were described, I thought that I could come up with something that looked similar, and besides the most important thing for me was to test out the frame saw system.

The two main dowels are 1 7/8" thick. I made them by octagonalizing some long pieces and then planed them round. They aren't 100% perfect round, but they are fairly close.

The legs were drilled with a 1 7/8" hole and ripped apart. After that the legs were mounted in the lathe and turned down to give a sleek appearance. Instead of rounding the top, I chose to saw a diamond shape.
Finally I marked out and drilled the stopped holes for the short dowels.

The two short dowels are 5/4" in diameter and I made those on the lathe. I made them overly long, to be able to trim the length afterwards.

I found my old roll of canvas, and borrowed Mettes sewing machine.
It is a regular household sewing machine, so I was a bit curious if it would be able to sew in this thick fabric, but it worked admirably.

Assembling the bed was pretty straight forward, though I had to shorten the two short dowels even more than I anticipated. Right now they could still be shortened with perhaps 1/4", but I choose to wait to see, if perhaps the canvas will stretch a bit over time. They are not perfectly plumb, but splay a bit (I guess 1/2"). But I think it is preferable to the legs pointing inwards.

Thoughts on the build:
Planing a long round dowel takes a bit of practice. I could feel that the second dowel was easier than the first one, but that is hardly a surprise.

My drill press is not very good when it comes to handling large Forstner drills. It lacks power, and it flexes a bit, causing the hole to not be 90 degrees.
It isn't a deal breaker, but I think that I could probably have made a hole just as accurate by hand.

Once assembled, the bed will flex a bit when you sit on it - kind of like a Roorkhee chair.
If the rope is twisted tightly, the bed is surprisingly comfortable. I tested the bed myself, and I it held up just perfectly.

The original bed might have the legs a bit closer to one another, which would stiffen up the whole thing, so I might do that if I make another one at some point.
Mette likes the bed so much that it has been placed in the living room, which is a sure way to determine that the project has been a success.

Campaign bed frame saw style.

Larch stretcher dowels before planing.

Crappy light, but notice the romantic roses!

Load testing the bed.

Holding system.



Categories: Hand Tools

The Latest Adventure

Doug Berch - Mon, 02/19/2018 - 3:23pm

Resawing wood for dulcimers

Just saying hello.

I had back surgery two weeks ago and recovery is going well. I now have two non-adjustable truss rods and some other hardware supporting my lower back.

I’m taking it easy, catching up on reading, watching some series and movies I would normally not have time for, gently exercising and occasionally feeling bored. I’m also reading a lot about lutherie and doing thought experiments about new designs, methods of work, and possibly some new instruments to make.

It will probably be two months or so before I can begin to do some work in the shop. Before surgery I did some of the rough work to prepare for the time I’ll be back at the bench again. In the photograph above is cherry, walnut, and curly ash resawn for some future dulcimers.

Full recovery will take up to a year but if all goes as planned I’ll able to work longer hours making dulcimers than I have for about 5 years. I look forward to that time! I love my job!

Doug Berch - Dulcimer Maker And Musician

Categories: Luthiery

Carved arcading

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Mon, 02/19/2018 - 2:55pm

I spent the weekend at the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking, teaching 13 students to carve oak patterns…but I forgot my camera. One design I hoped to include, but ran out of time for, is this “nulling” or arcading pattern. It’s very common, there’s lots of variations on it. This is my recent version, in walnut instead of oak. This example is only about 3 1/2″ between the bottom and top margin.

Here’s how I carved a section of it today, after unpacking. This pattern has no free-hand aspect of it, very different from my usual work. All the elements are struck first with an awl, square and marking gauge. Spacing is marked off with a ruler and compass/dividers. Once I know the spacing (that’s some trial & error, based on the size of your stock, and the tools available) – I strike the chisel work to define the spaces between the arches.

Then I use my #7, 3/4″ wide gouge to strike the tops of the arches and the peaked leaf that falls behind them. 3 strikes of the gouge outline the tops of the arches. There’s a marking gauge line at the top & bottom of these, so they all line up properly.

This leaf tip that fits behind them starts about 1/2 way up one side of the arch, and hits a centerline struck through the chiseled portion.

Once the outlines are struck, I use the chisel with its bevel down to chop these sections. Sometimes I have to go back & forth between the vertical strikes and the beveled ones to get the chip out.

Then comes some background removal. I use the #7 to chop behind its original strikes.

Then a #5, about 1/2″ wide to smooth off this background. It leans down from the top margin to the arches/leaves.

Then I hollow the leaves with the #7.  Makes them look like they fall behind the arches a bit.

Now to hollow the arches. I start with a narrow, deeply-curved gouge. (old, no before they were numbered. It’s between a #8 & #9.) Two strikes  define the bottom of the hollow. Previously I struck inner margins for this hollow.

I chop right behind this to remove a chip. This will help protect the bottom solid bit when I finish hollowing.

Now a larger gouge hollows out the whole thing. This takes a few cuts. I don’t go to the full depth in one go. In the end, I want this tool to hollow all the way to the outlines I struck.

Here is the pattern after the shaping. But it looks pretty blank…

Gotta fill all the blank spaces. Start with a small #7 to chop details in the leaves.

A straight chisel to highlight the peaked bits.

A large gouge just strikes an incised line around the top of the arches. A punch fills in other spaces.

This really narrow gouge chops little patterns inside the hollows.

 

I always like to see what they look like after applying some linseed oil –

 

(I’ve 

I’ve heard it called “nulling” but my copy of Cyril Harris’ Illustrated Dictionary of Historic Architecture is out in the shop. That’s where I would check the name. Maybe I’ll remember tomorrow.

Inlay accoutrements

NCW Woodworking Guild - Mon, 02/19/2018 - 1:35pm

At January’s meeting, we discussed and looked at examples of inlay material that included mother of pearl, abalone, brass, reconstituted stone, and some of the equipment choices available.  Because we managed only a little time working on the prepared inlay purchased from DePaule Supply, we will spend our time at this month’s meeting (February) completing it and learning how to cut our own inlays out of mother of pearl. Please join us; the fun’s just beginning.

Here are some photos from January’s meeting:

DSC02123

Different types of inlay materials displayed

DSC02103

A variety of inlay equipment including aquarium pumps.

DSC02122

Mother of pearl samples

DSC02130

Prepping a premade inlay-within-an-inlay

DSC02133

Here, the outline of the inlay is scribed into ebony and highlighted with chalk.

DSC02136

My favorite tool: Stewart-McDonald’s new lighted plunge-router base for Dremels.

DSC02144

Closeup of excavation to accommodate the inlay

DSC02145

It is easy to achieve accuracy with this new router base.

New in Store: Lost Art Press Chore Coat

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 02/19/2018 - 9:00am

chore_coat_hang_tag_IMG_1314

You can now place a pre-production order for our chore coat via this link. The coat is $185, which includes domestic shipping.

Before you order a coat, please follow these simple instructions for determining the best size for you. We have enough material for about 300 coats and will place our order with the manufacturer based on the orders we receive. Stitching is supposed to begin in March, and we will ship out the coats as soon as they arrive in our warehouse.

Offering these chore coats is a significant gamble. The profit margins are low because we wanted this coat to be as affordable as possible. And we strove to make our coat a classic – nicely tailored and as well made as our books.

We understand book manufacturing, which is dang tricky. But we’re still learning a lot about clothing manufacturing, which seems even trickier.

So we might completely fail here. But at least John and I will get some nice coats, and we’ll have lots of gorgeous cotton fabric we can use as animal bedding.

— Christopher Schwarz

Categories: Hand Tools

North Bennet Street School and videos

Tico Vogt - Mon, 02/19/2018 - 7:45am

On Tuesday February 20th I will be presenting my wares at the historic North Bennet Street School from around 11:30-2:30.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are some new videos. The first is about a small Cherry box with drawers that I recently repaired after it took a fall and cracked open the miter joints of the top frame.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This one is about Drawer Resisters that I introduced several years ago.

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This one is about adjusting the Parallel Guide Strip and fences on the Vogt Shooting Board.

 

 

WW18thC 2018 – Rediscovering Roubo

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 02/19/2018 - 6:53am

The first of my two WW18thC presentations was “Roubo Rediscovered – Merging 1760s Paris with the 21st Century” in which I recounted the nuggets gleaned from The Roubo Translation Project and how I have incorporated them into my current work practices.  Not too surprisingly this is a topic on which I could speak and demonstrate literally for days, but I packed as much as I could in 90 minutes.

I began as almost always within this framework by giving my benches-and-holdfast sermon,

followed by demonstrations of Roubo’s veneer sawing bench with some audience participation,

winding-sticks-on-stilts,

the coopering cradle, a vital clamping component in the world of serpentine and bombe’ furniture,

panel clamping jigs,

mobile bench-top press, this one made by Oldwolf (can you say Moxon vise?),

and finally ripple molding cutter my friend and collaborator JohnH.

Each of these items will be addressed individually in coming blog posts.  The overal; topic of Roubo’s Workshop is a huge one and I am outlining an extensive video series to explore it in depth (more about that later this week).

My thanks to JohnR for pictures of this presentation.  I would have taken them myself but I was busy at the time.

Moved Out!

Paul Sellers - Mon, 02/19/2018 - 4:18am

A little out of sequence with my blog but we put together a video saying goodbye to all the friends we made at the Sylva Wood Centre in Long Wittenham. It was of course with many mixed feelings that we packed our bags but Izzy and Ellie put together a wonderful spread for lunch on […]

Read the full post Moved Out! on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Miles's toolbox penultimate part........

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 02/19/2018 - 2:04am
Tomorrow will be the last part to Miles's toolbox for a good while. I don't have everything I want but I have 95% of it easily. Since my grandson just had his first birthday two months ago, I think I'm safe if I take my time getting what is left to get. So far I haven't had any surprises with something I don't have. I kind of know what is left to get but Miles wouldn't be too put out if he had to use what is here now.

This update will be another lump job like the previous one. It is mostly ancillary tools and do-dads that make the road less bumpy.

sharpening stuff is a bit on the lean side
I made this strop when I made one for me. The LN honing guide was a contribution from Ken Hatch. It has the guides for chisels from 1/8" on up to #8 plane irons (2 5/8"?). I haven't decided on what to get him for stones yet. I am leaning in the direction of diamond stones and a 8K japanese water stone for polishing like I use. I wouldn't have room for that in the toolbox so I'll have to make a till to stow it all in.

Having sharp tools is very important and I want to impress this on Miles. He'll be young enough that it will probably become second nature with him.

nailing stuff
The nail puller on the left works great on brads and small nails. I have used mine pulling 10 penny finish nails without any problems. The box has 3 nail sets and a center punch. I made the box because I dislike tools rattling around and banging against each other.

screwdriver sets
The left brown ones are square drives - #2, #1, and #0. The right ones are a standard set of flat and philip head drivers. I didn't bother with power bits because he isn't getting any powered tools from me.

hand power required

The 1/2" breast drill (in the box) will be rehabbed and given to Miles. I had bought him a set of auger bits but I returned them. Out of eight bits, 7 of them had no threads on the lead screw. Useless, so back they went. I want to see the next set before I buy another. Undecided on getting him a small eggbeater drill. I saw one on the hyperkitten site and I didn't get it like an idiot.

banging stuff
The mallet is mine and I will get one for Miles too. What kid that age doesn't like to beat and bang on things. The 8oz hammer was mine. The first handle had broken and I bought a new hammer (saved the head) because I didn't know how to replace a handle back then. Now I do and it belongs to Miles.

chisels
I got this Ashley Iles chisel set from the Best of Things. It is a basic set and it came with the chisel roll. I snagged the big AI chisel from SawMillCreek. I got him a 1/4" pigsticker and this payday I'm getting him a 3/8". He'll be able to do most of his mortising work with those two. I will work prepping these chisels into the schedule somehow, somewhere.

basic shaping and finishing set
The file is for the card scrapers and the #80. And occasional end grain work too.

flattened and shined the sole, the retaining bar, and the thumbscrews

I will have to strip and paint this now
Hock burnisher
For rolling the hook on the blade in the #80 and the card scrapers.

Miles's Olsen coping saw
I like this saw but the handle comes off in use. That makes it a wee bit annoying.

this is what won't stay put
epoxy?
The friction fit in the handle is toast. The nut thing is hollow and screws on the threaded part on the saw frame right below it. I'll have to be careful when I epoxy it.

 the second drawer

last joint going together off the saw
This is what I shoot for but I don't mind trimming to fit neither. I did much better on these dovetails then I did on the first drawer. I had to do a lot trimming on them before I got the drawer to come together.

dry square ok
snug fit between the slides.
I should be able to get this drawer done tomorrow.

cleaned the bench
The drawer I just dovetailed got dirty from being on the bench. I rehabbed a lot of tools and a lot of that debris from it settled into the bench. I tried to clean with Krud Kutter but that didn't work too well. So I switched to planing it clean.

a plug for Autosol
This is what the bottom of these planes looked like after planing the workbench.

it's not twisted
  1. I rely on my bench to be flat. I can check it for twist but I don't have anything 8 foot long to check it for flat with. I used a lot of critical eyeballing along with copious scratching of the bald spot to check it for flat.

second dovetail job today
2nd one went together off the saw too
it's going where the second drawer is cooking away
it will be a tray for the top of the tool cabinet

this drawer is going away
All the crappola that is in this drawer will go in the tray.  I'll glue the tray together tomorrow and once it has set up, I'll glue it to the top of the cabinet.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the wheel on the game show 'Wheel of Fortune' is 8 and 1/2 feet in diameter?

David Barron Bench for Sale.

David Barron Furniture - Sun, 02/18/2018 - 6:49am

Here's a small but very sturdy little bench I made a while ago being sold by a friend of mine. It measures 42" wide x 24" deep x 37" high and would make an ideal bench for a small workshop or as a second bench. The base was made from 4" square pine (I don't remember painting it that colour!) and the top is 2 1/2" solid beech. The two bench stops can be used in the multiple holes and making it ideal for hand planning. The low stretcher and relatively high top means you can work sitting down with your knees under, great for chopping out dovetails.


The wooden leg vice has a massive 2 1/2" diameter wooden screw (also made by me) which is a pleasure to use. You can see the E Bay listing here.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Woodworking-Bench-by-David-Barron/202231890672?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649


Categories: Hand Tools

George’s Faux Drawers

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 02/18/2018 - 5:42am
George’s Faux Drawers

I’ve gotten back working on my version of George Washington’s partner’s desk. (I posted about scratch-stocks used on the legs and other inexpensive shop-made tools I’ve used.) Today, take a look at the setup and process to make George’s faux drawers, which are found on the ends of the original desk. In my version the back sections are also faux – if it were a true partner’s desk it would have functioning drawers on both sides.

Continue reading George’s Faux Drawers at 360 WoodWorking.

Moved In!

Paul Sellers - Sun, 02/18/2018 - 4:27am

This weekend we loaded up our belongings and moved onto the Science Park where our new and permanent home now is. It took over a year to complete the outside but the inside will take just a few more weeks. It was a mixed week of sad and happy emotions because we’ve made friends and […]

Read the full post Moved In! on Paul Sellers' Blog.

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